Kode rahasia-jepang-candlesticks-pdf

Kode rahasia-jepang-candlesticks-pdf

Stock-chart-200-hari-moving-average
Pilihan-manfaat pajak-untuk-karyawan-saham
Moving-average-convergence-divergence- (macd)


Moving-average-trading-strategies-pdf Harus-i-use-stock-options-to-pay-off-debt Pairs-trading-strategies-using-equities Perpajakan-of-employee-stock-options-uk How-to-do-online-forex-trading-in-kenya Kisah-penipuan-forex

Nilai kami orang-orang kami Memimpin penerbit b2b, yang mengkhususkan diri dalam komunitas profesional online dan interaktif Dengan berbagai layanan termasuk situs web, publikasi email, penghargaan dan acara industri, Sift Media memberikan konten bermerek asli kepada lebih dari setengah juta profesional di bidang akuntansi, TI, SDM Dan pelatihan, pemasaran, dan usaha kecil. Dengan menghasilkan konten berkualitas dan melibatkan pemirsa profesional kami di beberapa titik sentuh, kami menawarkan peluang pemasaran unik dari merek b2b yang menghasilkan laba atas investasi yang sesungguhnya. Nilai Kami Kami percaya dalam menciptakan konten, memungkinkan percakapan dan mengubah peluang bisnis, baik untuk khalayak bisnis maupun klien periklanan kami. Dengan berfokus pada konten dan mendorong keterlibatan masyarakat, kami bertujuan untuk menciptakan lingkungan yang terpercaya dan unik bagi merek bisnis dan profesional bisnis untuk mengoptimalkan hubungan. Orang-orang kami Orang-orang kami adalah aset terbesar kami dan kami beruntung mendapatkan beberapa talenta digital terbaik di negara ini. Dengan tim manajemen senior, manajer kampanye dan akun berpengalaman, editor pemenang penghargaan, dan tim produksi dan teknologi terdepan, kami memiliki struktur dan kualitas yang membedakan kami dari penerbit lain. Cari tahu lebih banyak dan temui tim di bawah ini. Tom Dunkerley Direktur Keuangan Steven Priscott, Menyaring Sejarah Kami Didirikan oleh Andrew Gray, David Gilroy dan CEO Ben Heald saat ini, Sift menawarkan layanan informasi khusus industri yang memanfaatkan internet dengan mengintegrasikan berita dan konten web tradisional. Dengan latar belakang Bens di bidang akuntansi, diputuskan bahwa ini adalah pasar eksplorasi pertama dan pada tahun 1997 AccountingWEB.co.uk lahir. Rumusnya berhasil, dan dalam 12 bulan daftar sirkulasi telah meningkat dari 10 menjadi 4.000, dengan pendapatan dihasilkan dari iklan dalam buletin mingguan mingguan. Sift Media sekarang menjangkau lebih dari 700.000 profesional bisnis terdaftar setiap bulan dan memberikan lebih dari 5 juta tayangan halaman di seluruh portofolio 11 judul di Inggris dan Amerika Serikat. Tidak hanya kami terus mengembangkan beberapa komunitas bisnis online yang paling setia dan terlibat, kami memberikan solusi terdepan untuk pengiklan. Untuk riwayat yang lebih rinci, kunjungi situs perusahaan kami. Jika Anda ingin bergabung dengan salah satu penerbit paling menarik di Inggris dan Anda yakin memiliki gairah dan keterampilan untuk menjadi bagian berharga dari tim, mengapa tidak memeriksa lowongan kerja kami saat ini. Proses Instrumentasi Pengendalian Kontrol Mengukur, Mengontrol, dan Merekam Kami Mampu mengkalibrasi atau memperbaiki semua instrumen proses tipe produsen untuk semua jenis aplikasi. Kami memiliki pengalaman dengan beragam instrumentasi yang digunakan di x02026 Read More. Instrumen Analitik dan Laboratorium Moyer Instruments, Inc. menawarkan perbaikan atau kalibrasi instrumen laboratorium analitik seperti Spectrophotometers, GC, AA, TGA, TOC, HPLC, pH meter, Analyzers, dll. Instrumentasi dapat dikirim untuk diperbaiki, atau kami dapat melakukan perjalanan Ke x02026 Anda Read More. Kalibrasi Laboratorium dan Perbaikan Level Bench Kami dapat memberikan NIST traceable calibrations untuk variabel dan parameter yang tercantum di bawah ini. Layanan ini dapat dilakukan di lokasi di lokasi Anda atau di fasilitas kami. Semua proses pelacakan, analisis, atau proses kalibrasi meliputi x02026 Read More. Sebelum kita masuk ke dalam daging artikel ini, berikut daftar istilah abjad. Anda sepenuhnya bisa melewatkan bagian ganjil ini jika Anda tidak memiliki selera humor saat ini. Karena (pilih alasan). KOMPRESOR AIR: Mesin dengan berbagai kegunaan, termasuk mengumpulkan air dari ampli luar mencoba untuk mencampurnya dengan cat. Ada yang mengatakan bahwa itu adalah mesin yang menghasilkan energi yang diproduksi di pembangkit listrik tenaga batu bara yang berjarak ratusan mil jauhnya sehingga mengubahnya menjadi udara bertekanan, yang bergerak dengan selang ke kunci pas Pneumatic Chicago, yang mengatasi baut berkarat yang terakhir dikencangkan 50 tahun yang lalu oleh Seseorang, suatu tempat Dan hancurkan mereka atau, paling tidak, membulatkannya dengan baik. Kompresor udara sering digunakan dengan Air Wrench (lihat item berikutnya). Kompresor juga digunakan dengan nosel tangan untuk meniup bagian kecil ke area sudut dimana tidak dapat ditemukan. Hal ini selalu disertai bersamaan dengan ungkapan yang keras dari quotOh Jesusquot. Tidak peduli apakah seorang Kristen atau tidak. AIR WRENCH: Alat yang digunakan dengan kompresor udara, sering digunakan untuk mengikat pengikat silang dengan serius untuk membangunkan tetangga Anda dan untuk menguji kekuatan material baut di tempat yang tidak sesuai dengan laboratorium. ALLEN SCREW: Sekrup kepala hex betina biasanya (tepat diberi nama, HEX dan FEMALE) yang dirancang untuk membuat Anda frustrasi karena tidak pernah ditandai ukurannya, juga jika Metrik atau Amerika. Pembulatan satu mengarah pada peningkatan praktik kosakata. Versi kepala wanita khusus dengan posttit yang meningkat di tengah dirancang khusus untuk menggagalkan usaha Anda dalam melakukan apapun kecuali menatapnya, karena alasan yang tidak dapat saya gambarkan di situs web tipe keluarga. Lihat kunci inggris BRISTOL, di bawah. ARC WELDER: Perangkat yang menghasilkan listrik pendek yang memungkinkan batang pengelasan menempel ke permukaan sampai menyala merah. Operator memakai kap mesin yang tidak bisa dilihatnya. Fitur tambahan adalah batang las yang terjebak menyebabkan mesin las menyenandungkan nada musik. BANDSAW: Perangkat yang digunakan untuk menghancurkan pita logam berbentuk lingkaran yang memiliki gigi di satu sisi. BATERAI ELECTROLYTE TESTER, KACA, DENGAN FLOAT: Alat praktis untuk mentransfer asam sulfat dari baterai kuno (slosh) ke bagian dalam kotak peralatan Anda setelah menentukan bahwa baterai Anda mati seperti doornail, seperti yang Anda duga. Ini tugas ganda untuk pemutihan amp menghancurkan jeans biru di tempat-tempat kecil. Dibuat dengan kertas grafik tercetak terpaku pada pelampung, yang dirancang untuk bertahan beberapa tahun saja, dan pada saat itu grafiknya tidak tergulung, pelampung menempel pada dinding kaca, dan Anda perlu membeli penguji baru. BRISTOL WRENCH AND BRISTOL SCREW: Kunci pas Bristol cocok dengan kepala sekrup Bristol, yang sekilas sangat tampak tampaknya berasal dari tipe Allen. Mereka dengan pandangan singkat yang sedikit lebih lama bahkan mungkin berpikir itu adalah Torx, atau kepala sekrup baru lainnya. Sekrup Bristol sebenarnya didesain khusus untuk membuat frustrasi. Tidak ada petugas toko onderdil atau petugas toko peralatan keras di bawah usia 75 tahun yang pernah mendengar nama Bristol Wrench, juga tidak pernah melihat sekrupnya, kecuali beberapa mungkin membingungkan nama tersebut dengan beberapa wanita (mungkin seorang Wench) atau di suatu tempat di Inggris. Pegawai akan melihat Anda dengan aneh jika Anda meminta sekrup Bristol atau kunci Bristol. BMW telah dengan bijaksana menolak untuk menempatkan bagian Bristol pada sepeda motornya, yang mendukung metode yang lebih populer (di Jerman) untuk mengganggu Anda. Item yang hanya membingungkan adalah kacang, baut dan alat Whitworth, yang sepenuhnya dipahami oleh mereka yang tumbuh saat Inggris disebut Inggris Raya atau Brittania, dan menggunakan kapal layar tinggi. BUNGEE CORD: Alat karet bundar yang melengkung, sering ditutupi oleh kepang yang berwarna cerah, dirancang untuk menahan alas tidur Therm-a-Rest yang mahal di bagian belakang motor Anda, di mana mereka bisa hilang, tidak dapat ditemukan lagi, kecuali dengan liar. Binatang. Terkadang biasanya tiba-tiba menghentikan sepeda motor dengan cepat amp spektakuler. Datang dalam berbagai warna dan kombinasi warna, bahkan garis-garis, yang membuat mereka terutama terlihat saat dibungkus dalam roda pemintal. Mereka telah diketahui tiba-tiba terputus, dan dengan demikian bisa memukul seseorang tanpa pandang bulu, meninggalkan kekacauan berdarah. KUNCI CHUCK: Salah satu alat yang paling sering hilang. Anda tidak pernah tahu ukuran amp tipe apa yang akan dibeli setelah Anda kehilangan satu, amp tidak mengerti sistem penomoran, amp juga tidak meminta petugas di toko yang mengira Anda mencari kunci mobil Chucks. CORDLESS (tanpa kabel nirkabel): Dikembangkan untuk meningkatkan laporan rugi rugi perangkat industri baterai. DRILL PRESS: Mesin tegak tegak yang berguna untuk mendadak menyambar stok logam datar dari tangan Anda sehingga membuat Anda tertahan di ampas ampas kopi di seberang ruangan, memercikkannya ke spatbor, tangki bahan bakar, dan lain-lain yang telah Anda siapkan dengan cermat. Amp dicat hari ini, dan yang masih mengering. DRYWALL SCREW: Sekrup tajam yang sangat tajam yang dirancang untuk ditinggalkan di jalan raya untuk menusuk ban, terutama dinding sampingnya. Penggunaan sekunder, yang disembunyikan dari masyarakat umum yang melakukan perbaikan Airhead mereka sendiri, dapat dimodifikasi untuk digunakan dalam senapan pop-paku keling untuk memasang paku keling berongga BMW di sistem pemasangan kaca depan pada model RT. Dikatakan bahwa pemasang drywall bahkan telah menggunakan sekrup ini untuk pemasangan drywall, berlawanan dengan pemasangan kabel. DELAPAN BELAS DOUGLAS FIR 2X4 (dua per empat): Sepotong pohon Fir, dibuat menjadi potongan kayu panjang berbentuk persegi panjang, yang dinamai membingungkan wanna-be home-penghuni, dan benar-benar 1-12quot x 3-12quot x 8 panjang. Digunakan untuk mengencangkan motor ke atas dari jack hidrolik. Sering dibeli untuk tujuan lain, dan selalu ditemukan menjadi kaki yang terlalu pendek untuk tujuan itu. TANGAN LISTRIK LISTRIK: Biasanya digunakan untuk memanggang paku keling pop baja di lubangnya sampai Anda meninggal karena usia tua, namun juga bagus untuk mengebor lubang pemasangan di spatbor tepat di atas garis rem yang masuk ke roda jika tidak ada jalur rem, selalu ada ban. EXHAUST FINNED NUT WRENCH: Digunakan dengan banyak kekuatan untuk menghancurkan benang port knalpot pada BMW Airhead Motorcycles. Penggunaan tambahan, tidak ada kecuali beberapa orang, yang BERPIKIR mereka pintar (atau cerdas), telah menggunakannya untuk, en-mass, menyebarkan partikel dan potongan berbagai kacang yang dapat dimakan ke sekeliling ruangan. E-Z OUT, ATAU BETON YANG DITINJAU LAINNYA. EXTRACTORS: Alat umum dari banyak jenis. Dirancang untuk mematahkan sudut sehingga tidak mudah dilipat dengan mudah untuk pengeboran amp remove. Mereka selalu dirancang untuk menjadi sepuluh kali lebih keras daripada pukulan tengah dan bor yang dikenal. Ada yang bilang tujuan utamanya adalah mematahkan dirinya sendiri di baut yang sudah rusak. Rumornya adalah bahwa alat-alat ini dirancang amp dijual oleh perusahaan yang juga memproduksi torsi murah berkualitas buruk. FLASHLIGHT: Sebuah wadah yang digunakan untuk menyimpan baterai mati yang bocor yang anehnya juga mengandung bola lampu kecil. GASKET SCRAPER: Secara teoritis bermanfaat sebagai alat sandwich untuk menyebarkan mayones atau mustard. Digunakan terutama untuk mendapatkan doo anjing dari boot Anda. Semua scraper harus diperiksa sebelum membuat sandwich. HACKSAW DAN AVIATION METAL SNIPS: Salah satu keluarga alat pemotong yang dibangun di atas prinsip dewan Ouija. Ini mengubah energi manusia menjadi gerakan tak menentu yang bengkok. Semakin Anda mencoba untuk mempengaruhi jalannya, semakin buruk pekerjaan Anda. HAMMER: Awalnya dipekerjakan sebagai senjata amp perang kemudian di Olimpiade Yunani, palu sekarang-a-hari digunakan sebagai semacam batang peniru untuk menemukan kembali bagian-bagian yang mahal jauh dari objek yang ingin kita hit dengan palu. Ada yang mengatakan bahwa tujuan sebenarnya adalah mengubah warna ibu jari Anda di tangan TIDAK menggunakan palu, sehingga menciptakan ungkapan-ungkapan keras baru. Ada banyak cara berpikir tentang palu, berikut ini beberapa hal lagi: Jika Anda tidak bisa memperbaikinya dengan palu, dapatkan palu yang lebih besar. Jika Anda tidak bisa memperbaikinya dengan palu, itu adalah masalah listrik. Jika Anda tidak bisa memperbaikinya dengan palu, itu tidak layak diperbaiki. Jika tidak pecah, perbaiki dengan palu sampai benar. Jika itu tidak berhasil, Anda tidak mencoba. Jika Anda percaya semua yang Anda baca, Anda tidak boleh membaca. HARBOR FREIGHT: Seorang penjual alat ampas buatan China dengan nama Amerikanisasi, yang mungkin atau mungkin tidak sesuai dengan harapan Anda, amp yang Anda harapkan akan bertahan hingga sebanyak tiga kali penggunaan. Memikat Anda setiap hari, jika tidak setiap jam, iklan, terutama ampli seukuran tabloid yang dilipat. Yang lainnya adalah brosur pengiriman surat siput, dan halaman belakang di majalah pasangan Anda. Iklan ini semua memiliki harga yang dapat bervariasi untuk item spesifik SAMA. Tergantung WHERE kamu punya brosur atau iklan dari. Anda tidak seharusnya tahu itu. Serius quotHarbor-Freightersquot menyimpan kupon tersebut untuk apa adanya, atau mungkin, tertarik, amp sering mengumpulkan cukup untuk item SAMA, untuk memungkinkan memilih harga terendah untuk satu item, karena harganya, seperti yang tercantum, sering berbeda tergantung Di mana Anda melihat iklannya. Terkadang ini terbayar dengan sangat kuat. Seperti untuk lift sepeda motor. Dan HF GRATIS STUFF bagus untuk alat yang jarang Anda butuhkan atau tidak keberatan hilang. Wrencher serius sering memiliki sesuatu dari Harbor Freight yang memiliki, misterius, ditahan dari waktu ke waktu digunakan. Keistimewaan Harbor Freight adalah jalur yang sulit dibaca, kadang-kadang kunci pas torsi yang tidak benar begitu sulit dibaca sehingga kesalahan utama mungkin terjadi dalam penggunaannya. Harbor Freight telah Anda bahas juga, karena mereka juga menjual barang untuk memperbaiki masalah yang disebabkan oleh kunci pas torsi tersebut. Harbour Freight memiliki multimeter digital yang anehnya akurat dan sangat berguna, sehingga sering mereka berikan, jika Anda membeli ANYthing. Mereka mungkin menawarkan penawaran serupa seperti gunting, lampu LED, dll. Semuanya dapat menjadi barang yang sangat berguna. Dan semua yang pasti layak biaya GRATIS mereka untuk Anda (kecuali jika Anda harus melakukan perjalanan untuk sampai ke toko, atau, Anda membeli sesuatu, atau banyak somethings). HOSE CUTTER: Alat yang digunakan untuk memotong selang 12 inci terlalu pendek. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Digunakan untuk menurunkan sepeda motor ke tanah setelah Anda memasang rem cakram depan baru Anda, menjebak pegangan jack dengan kuat. Terkadang digunakan untuk mematahkan sirip dari panci minyak dan menghancurkan kaki dari apa pun yang sedang Anda turunkan. DAMPAK DRIVER: Perangkat bundar bulat yang kuat dan tajam dengan cam internal tersembunyi dan drive kuadrat yang biasa digunakan untuk melonggarkan pengencang ketat atau beku, terutama pada sepeda motor Jepang lama, atau dengan phillips atau kepala yang serupa, dengan menggunakan kejang otot alami. Dari operator yang memegang alat itu, saat tangannya, di anyaman antara ibu jari dan telunjuk, dipukul oleh palu di tangannya yang lain. Dikenal disertai dengan jeritan keras yang dapat dibedakan dari emanasi emosi lain yang terjadi selama periode singkat setelah menggunakan alat ini untuk menyingkirkan sekrup kubah karburator Bing yang membeku, di mana kuotot telah membelah telinga dari karburator, karena kegagalan untuk Letakkan blok logam besar di bawah telinga itu. Tidak hanya telinga karburator yang tersinggung, tapi begitu juga telinga para pengamat. Bystanders sering adalah manusia betina. Teknisi sepeda motor yang lebih tua dari bukit-bukit, dan menghabiskan masa mudanya untuk mengendarai sepeda motor Jepang paling awal, memiliki bekas permanen dan menonjol di tangan mereka dari alat ini, yang difasilitasi oleh palu besar yang digunakan di toko tempat dia belajar berapa banyak dan cerdik Kata umpatan bisa MEKANIKA KNIFE: Digunakan untuk membuka amp slice melalui isi kardus karton yang dikirim ke pintu depan Anda bekerja sangat baik pada kotak yang berisi jok amp jaket motor telah diketahui menyebabkan kunjungan ke tempat yang menjahit luka. OXY-ACETYLENE amp PROPANE amp MAPP TORCHES: Item dengan nama, TORCH, yang menurut beberapa orang asing berarti senter, yang membingungkan mereka, yang berjalan seiring dengan kebingungan mereka tentang orang Amerika. Terutama digunakan secara ekstensif untuk mengatur berbagai benda yang mudah terbakar di garasi Anda terbakar. Berguna untuk menyalakan gemuk di dalam drum rem Anda mencoba untuk mendapatkan perlombaan bantalan dari. Beberapa telah menggunakannya untuk memanaskan kaliper rem yang sudah terpasang dengan cairan pembersih rem, yang menciptakan PHOSGENE, yang akan menempatkan Anda di rumah sakit dengan status sangat sakit, namun Anda mendapat cuti dari pekerjaan. Jangan berencana untuk melanjutkan kebiasaan merokok Anda sesudahnya. TELEPON: Perangkat yang awalnya ditemukan oleh Alexander Graham Bell, yang menyebutnya Telepon dan yang anehnya menemukannya saat bekerja di sekolah untuk orang tuli. Meskipun dia dikreditkan dengan penemuannya, Alexander Graham Bell menolak untuk memiliki telepon di ruang kerjanya, karena khawatir hal itu akan mengalihkan perhatiannya dari karya ilmiahnya. Sayangnya, sikap baik ini belum beralih ke pengguna ponsel quotsmartquot saat ini, yang memakai whorls dari jari telunjuk mereka untuk menggunakannya, terus-menerus, 24 jam sehari. Beberapa tipe telepon awal yang sangat populer seperti candlesticks, jadi gayanya dinamai begitu. Versi portabel modern digunakan secara luas untuk memanggil tetangga Anda untuk melihat apakah dia memiliki jack lantai hidrolik lain atau, bisakah dia datang dan membantu membawa YOURS dari ANDA sebelum Anda benar-benar hancur. Paling tidak, Anda AKAN memanggilnya. Tapi Anda meninggalkan telepon di mobil Anda, diparkir di jalan. Penggunaan yang lebih penting untuk ponsel modern adalah untuk menguji Cell Phone System pada malam hujan di tempat sekarang, dengan sepeda yang tidak biasa karena baterai Anda lebih tua dari pada perbukitan. Dan penumpang khusus Anda, tidak pernah berada dalam perjalanan yang lama sebelumnya, dan siapa yang ingin Anda impikan (dan bertanya-tanya apakah sepeda motor itu BENAR-BENAR menyenangkan). Dan, Anda bertanya-tanya tentang tas tidur tenda amp yang tidak Anda bawa (yang akan membuat situasi bisa ditolerir, dan bahkan membiarkan Waktu Kesenangan). (Catatan: Menara ponsel terlalu jauh, jadi telepon tidak akan berfungsi). Untuk Unknowing: Sebuah menara ponsel adalah struktur tinggi yang dibuat agar terlihat seperti pohon berwarna gelap dan tidak berwarna, yang meraih sinyal dari ponsel ANDA dan menolak untuk melewatinya secara konsisten atau kadang tidak pernah, kepada siapa pun. Ini konon bisa bekerja dengan tipe baru baterai yang dioperasikan ponsel yang muncul beberapa tahun yang lalu, disebut Smart Phone. Tujuan dari Smart Phone adalah untuk meningkatkan keuntungan sangat banyak dari perusahaan telepon yang tidak dapat menghasilkan cukup uang untuk jalur darat lama yang andal. Metode yang digunakan untuk mengekstrak banyak uang Anda dari dompet Anda disebut Data Plan. Sebagian besar pengguna Smart Phone memiliki banyak tip pada satu atau dua jari, kadang-kadang kehilangan ponsel mereka, dan telah menghabiskan waktu selama bertahun-tahun, sekitar setengah dari uang pensiun mereka untuk Data Plan mereka dan juga jatah jelajah Roaming quotfeaturesquot. Banyak yang telah mengganti layar kaca khusus setelah mengujinya melawan benda keras. Produsen Smart Phone sangat menyukai pelanggan, karena para pelanggan ini selalu menginginkan Smart Phone yang terbaru, terhebat, yang melakukan lebih banyak hal, sehingga setiap tahun atau dua pemilik Smart Phone HARUS punya yang baru. PLIERS DAN VISE-GRIPS: Digunakan untuk membulatkan kepala baut. Jika tidak ada yang lain, mereka juga dapat digunakan untuk mentransfer panas pengelasan intens ke telapak tangan Anda. Sekrup POSI-DRIV juga dikenal sebagai POZI, dan -DRIVE. Dan dengan nama yang tidak sesuai: Sekrup unik yang sering dikencangkan atau dilonggarkan dengan obeng Phillips yang biasanya akan tergelincir sebelum torsi yang tepat dapat diterapkan dan akan selalu merusak sekrup. Jika Anda memiliki obeng Posi-driv asli yang tidak tergelincir, mungkin Anda perlu mempertimbangkan diri Anda sendiri. Jika Anda memiliki obeng SupaDriv, dan mengetahui perbedaan dari PoziDriv, Anda adalah Nerd Tingkat Lanjut. Jika Anda tahu apa itu obeng Reed amp Prince, Anda adalah seorang nerd sejati, atau mungkin pernah bekerja di industri pesawat terbang. Jika Anda tahu obeng Frearson itu, Anda sudah sangat tua sehingga Anda sudah memesan nisan dan memiliki kontrak pemakaman pra-bayar. BAR PRY: Alat yang digunakan untuk menggulung logam yang mengelilingi klip atau braket yang perlu Anda hapus untuk mengganti bagian 50 sen. RAZOR BLADE: Alat tajam yang dirancang khusus untuk membuat torehan di bagian coran aluminium yang diasosiasikan dengan gasket sealer minyak. SCREWDRIVER, STANDAR FLAT BLADE TYPE: Alat yang sangat serbaguna. Digunakan untuk membuka cat kaleng amplas percikan cat di mana-mana. Hal ini sering digunakan pada sekrup slot tunggal Amerika yang beberapa idiot digunakan pada sepeda motor metrik Anda, namun juga memiliki satu kegunaan yang benar-benar praktis. Dengan ujung merah yang dipanaskan untuk menghilangkan kaca pengaman permukaan plastik di BMW K-bikes dan Oilheads, dll. Tujuan sekunder, di antara BANYAK, adalah untuk memeriksa warna darah Anda saat tertinggal di saku jins belakang atau, untuk menguji Tusukan perlawanan dari kain kursi motor. SCREWDRIVER, PHILLIPS TYPE: Dirancang khusus untuk cam-out saat Anda melepaskan sekrup, dan dengan demikian Anda mengeluarkan sekrupnya, yang tidak akan pernah lagi memiliki torsi yang tepat, sama seperti saat Anda mencobanya. Karburator Bing dilengkapi dengan sekrup, tapi sebagian besar memiliki satu sekrup slot di sampul atas (karburator awal) atau, memiliki sesuatu yang baru saja pensiun, atau yang sudah meninggal, sekrup pembuat sekrup Bing tahu yang sebenarnya, tapi mungkin sekrup Posi-Driv , Yang TIDAK Phillips. Penggunaan obeng Phillips akan merusak sekrup PoziDriv. Tidak ada yang mengerti ukuran tip untuk APAPUN ini. Obeng Phillips adalah kekejian, disorongkan pada dunia untuk membingungkan amp meningkatkan penjualan alat sekrup sekrup, yang sebagian besar tidak bekerja dengan baik sehingga meningkatkan penjualan dari hampir semua hal. Tersedia model baja berkualitas tinggi yang tersedia dengan harga yang dirancang untuk membuat Anda berhenti bernapas, setidaknya sesaat, oleh Snap-On. Penggunaan obeng Phillips yang paling umum adalah menusuk tutup kaleng minyak gaya lama dan percikan minyak di baju Anda. BMW SCREWDRIVER: Jenis poros konvertibel tipe merah-plastik-pegangan pendek, ditemukan di baki alat Airhead yang kadang-kadang ditemukan dalam dua potongan asli, namun paling sering ditemukan dengan bagian logam yang dapat dibalik hilang dan pegangan plastik retak. Saat selesai, alat ini tergelincir atau retak dan tergelincir saat mencoba mengencangkan atau melepaskan semua jenis sekrup. Tidak ada yang tahu pasti siapa yang bisa memasang sekrup itu benar-benar pas karena bahkan sudut penggiling ujung bilah standar tidak sesuai dengan sekrup yang diketahui, dan tidak ada yang tahu apa yang disebut ujung Phillips sesuai. Tidak pas dengan sekrup karburator Posi-Driv, yang hampir satu-satunya sekrup pada sepeda motor Anda, kecuali yang ada di polong instrumen Anda, yang tidak sesuai dengan benar. Sangat bagus dalam menghancurkan benang amp kepala di bagian plastik. Mercedes Benz menggunakan obeng Heyco yang sama dengan alat alat yang dilengkapi dengan mobilnya. Beberapa percaya bahwa alat ini digabungkan ke dalam alat alat kendaraan BMW dan Mercedes Benz sebagai lelucon praktis. Berbatasan dengan pribadi pun, bahwa tidak ada yang mengerti pula. Ada yang bilang itu awalnya dikembangkan sebagai plastik coklat, untuk bersimpati dengan gerakan Brown Shirts tahun 1930an namun salah keluar merah. Dianjurkan agar jika Anda memiliki alat seperti itu, Anda menempatkannya di tempat yang nyata di ruang tamu Anda, mungkin di atas sepotong mantel di bawah Rembrandt asli Anda. Ini harus menjadi tempat Anda menjamu tamu terhormat. Jika mereka bertanya tentang quotscrewdriverquot ini, merasa bebas untuk membuat cerita liar tentang tatap muka yang diceritakan dengan wajah lurus dengan tatapan serius. SNAP-ON: Distributor alat krom berlapis atau dipoles dengan kualitas tinggi dari sejumlah besar jenis, memiliki lambang atau ukiran Snap-On. Engraving dan high polish sangat berharga untuk alat yang harganya cukup mahal sehingga Anda dapat mengunjungi petugas pinjaman di bank (atau, Anda dapat memanfaatkan pembiayaan Snap-Ons quotforeverquot). Alat ini ditampilkan di dinding toko Anda dalam tata letak yang mengesankan secara visual untuk mengesankan pengunjung ke garasi Anda dengan status Anda dalam kehidupan. Alat kerja sebenarnya Anda sebenarnya sudah tua, seumur hidup dijamin Sears Craftsman (berlawanan dengan masa pakai terbatas, atau Pengrajin dengan e). Jika Anda seorang wannabe, alat Anda berasal dari Harbour Freight Company. Snap-on adalah perusahaan dengan struktur penjualan yang unik. Yang menjual produk dari kereta makan siang yang dikonversi (EX-Roach Coaches). Snap-On sedang dalam bisnis jual beli kontrak hipotek seumur hidup selamanya untuk produknya. Snap-On memiliki jumlah uang yang lebih banyak, daripada persediaan di gudang mereka, yang dipersembahkan untuk Akuntan. Semua mekanik, meski sangat miskin, memiliki beberapa jenis Snap-On yang digunakan untuk pamer, pada setiap dan semua kesempatan di mana Wannabe Wrenches and the Admirers merendahkan kaki mereka, menunggu mutiara kebijaksanaan. Mereka yang berada di 30 besar pendapatan di Negara mereka. Mungkin memiliki banyak koleksi alat Snap-On, ditampilkan di papan vertikal Pearl-White yang menutupi dinding ruang kerja mereka. Ini dirancang untuk pengunjung quotWOWquot, kecuali mereka termasuk dalam Country Club yang sama. Mungkin anehnya, wannabes malang yang belum menikah, tidak memiliki anak dan tinggal di gubuk, mungkin memiliki koleksi kecil, tapi akan menggunakan papan pasak coklat umum untuk menampilkannya ke Publik (sisi sebaliknya papan pasak, hanya dapat dilihat dari Interior toko (dilarang oleh peraturan asuransi agar tidak dilihat oleh pelanggan), memiliki semua peralatan lama, yang banyak ditemukan di jalan, karena truk pickup tua dengan peredam kejut bekas melonjak, menumpahkan isinya yang sudah usang. Alat-alat dari berbagai kegunaan (dan penggunaan yang tidak terduga) Lebih banyak kebenaran (sedikit menyesatkan): Mekanika biasa yang memiliki lebih dari beberapa alat Snap-On adalah orang jujur ​​bekerja keras yang benar-benar mencoba bangkit dalam profesinya dan menghargai Uang alat terbaik (banyak dari itu) dapat dibeli Orang-orang yang memiliki ratusan alat Snap-On dapat pensiun, atau hampir mungkin terpaksa dari proses kebangkrutan atau, dalam beberapa kasus yang jarang terjadi lagi, mewarisi bisnis perbaikan Dad. Snap-ON Memiliki bisnis yang menarik model. Produk mahal yang mengkilap yang menyilaukan wannabees dan Wrenches serius sama, dan dapat dijual sebagian besar karena kebijakan pembayaran mingguan Snap-Ons mengatakan bahwa kebijakan dikembangkan di Harvard Business School oleh siswa Yale yang gagal menjadi manusia yang tepat, keahlian khusus Yale. Orang-orang penjualan Snap-On muncul di Pelatih Roach mereka yang telah dikonversi tepat sebelum atau saat makan siang, yang merupakan plot yang disusun dengan hati-hati, dikerjakan oleh banyak psikolog dan psikiater. The Wonderment Of The Age adalah bagaimana seseorang Snap-On dapat berada di setiap bisnis di wilayahnya, tepatnya pada siang hari, pada hari yang sama. Desas-desus bahwa mereka adalah klon nampaknya satu-satunya jawaban. Snap-On juga menjual peti alat rollaway, harga bahkan salah satunya sama dengan fraksi kecil dari Utang Nasional. Alat Snap-on tidak diragukan lagi kualitasnya. Sebuah desas-desus, beredar di sekitar setiap tempat, setiap saat, adalah bahwa beberapa Wrench, teman dari seorang teman sepupu jauh sepupu. Suatu tempat Sebenarnya tidak memiliki apa-apa selain alat Snap-On, memiliki SETIAP SATU. Dan benar-benar lolos dengan pengisian pelanggan 3 kali lipat dari tingkat tenaga kerja. Alatnya dipajang dengan jelas melalui jendela besar di Ruang Penunggu (yang berisi TV layar datar besar, hanya memutar dua saluran, satu berisi opera sabun display ticker-tape konstan lainnya dari Wall Street). TELEPON: Kata kuno. Lihat TELEPON. atas. WAKTU CAHAYA: Instrumen stroboskopik untuk menyinari penumpukan lemak grunge pada mesin berputar. TOOL BOX: Tempat menyimpan alat yang tidak Anda butuhkan, kecuali penguji baterai kaca yang mengeluarkan sejumlah kecil asam baterai, karena penguji tidak pernah dibilas atau ditutup setelah dikeringkan. Kotak alat juga dipasang di tempat tidur pickup yang licin, agar lebih mudah hilang dengan bak terbuka (dan terutama jika bak truk hilang). Kotak Alat Mekanika Utama adalah varian yang sangat spesial, ini sering disebut Roll-a-Ways, karena begitu penuh dengan peralatan Snap-On, mereka telah dikenal untuk berguling-tengah, di tengah malam, tidak pernah Untuk dilihat olehmu lagi Jenis ini dibuat dalam banyak varietas, dengan merek terbaik yang memiliki bantalan rol, slide mahal, kaki rol besar yang bahkan bisa berputar, biasanya ke arah yang salah, sehingga Anda tidak bisa menggerakkan roll-a-way secara langsung. Baris sekali berisi semua alat Anda. Itu berarti Anda akan mengingini dan mungkin membeli yang lain. Menyeka dan memoles alat Anda dan menempatkannya dalam posisi tepat tepat di laci tertentu adalah bagian dari mistik dan diketahui menurunkan produktivitas pada pekerjaan sebenarnya, namun sangat mengesankan wannabees. TORQUE WRENCH: Awalnya dirancang untuk menawarkan metode pengencangan pengencang ke jumlah torsi tertentu sehingga pesawat tinggal di udara. Sekarang, semua kecuali alat profesional (dan dua model kunci pas torsi Craftsman semi-pro semi harga moderat) biasanya digunakan oleh non-profesional untuk melonggarkan, memperketat, menetapkan tingkat baut dan kancing rusak. Atau tetap tersembunyi di laci yang tidak jelas, di suatu tempat. Kecuali alat pro dan semi pro, semua tampak dilengkapi dengan aneh yang sangat sulit dibaca dan dipahami karakternya, yang diukir atau dicap di bagian luar laras alat. Sementara beberapa telah digunakan sebagai palu ringan, sebagian besar alat ini digunakan untuk menguji tingkat kekuatan tertinggi berbagai pengencang dan sambungan ulir. Insinyur Penjualan menghabiskan banyak waktu merancang kunci pas torsi, sehingga Anda bisa lebih mudah menafsirkan angka cetak terukir atau tertera-ke-logam dengan benar. Upaya awal untuk membingungkan telah distandarisasi pada kunci pas torsi harga yang paling murah. Standarisasi ini dicatat oleh alat yang memiliki permukaan tampak krom reflektif mengkilap pada barel (bukan jendela dengan angka terbaca tercetak pada bagian dalam seperti pada model Sears, di atas yang dicatat). Botol krom reflektif dengan angka-angka yang dicor dengan buruk dan garis-garis aneh hampir tidak mungkin dibaca tanpa pencahayaan khusus dan kacamata Polaroid. Kemudian, seseorang harus melihat beberapa kali, dengan saksama, untuk melihat tempat yang dimaksud dengan garis ini. Perbaikan berbagai penjualan ini membantu sisi lain bisnis perusahaan, yaitu membuat dan menjual penghilang pejantan yang rusak dan barang pengikat ulir lainnya. Produk Harbour Freight sangat baik pada penjualan sebab dan akibat. TORX: Alat alat penguat ampas yang dirancang dengan benar, dengan nama yang tampaknya merupakan kebanggaan tentang bagaimana Anda memikirkannya. Alat Torx digunakan untuk memasang atau melepaskan pengencang yang dinamai. Tidak ada yang mengerti sepenuhnya sistem penomoran. Ini dijadwalkan akan perlahan dihapus oleh perusahaan mobil, karena pengencang misteri yang baru dikembangkan. Ada beberapa jenis pengencang misteri yang sekilas (closeup view) terlihat seperti bagian Torx, seperti baut batang Airheads Anda, namun ternyata tipe yang berbeda (Tampilan closeup pertama terjadi SETELAH Anda merusak baut yang merupakan BMW. - hanya bagian, dan tidak pernah di stok di dealer BMW). Sekrup Torx khusus telah dirancang dengan tit yang terangkat di tengah, dengan sengaja menjaga agar tangan kotor Anda keluar dari berbagai produk elektronik yang berada di rumah Anda. Orang-orang yang merancang sekrup keamanan Torx adalah alat yang sama yang tanpa henti mendesain ulang sekrup satu arah dari berbagai jenis baru, dan sering mengujinya pada pintu toilet toilet pria dan wanita. Perancang sekrup ini termasuk milik International Torx S amp M Club. TROUBLE LIGHT: Sumber cahaya sesekali ini selalu dirancang oleh produsen lampu, dan kadang-kadang disebut lampu kilat (karena selalu meluncur dari apapun yang Anda inginkan untuk cahaya, dan jatuh di lantai semen). Sebagian besar waktu desain dan pengembangan dihabiskan di pegangan, jadi terlihat indah, tapi menjadi sangat licin dengan sedikit minyak di tangan Anda, sehingga saat Anda menjatuhkannya (jika meluncur dari pekerjaan Anda tidak berfungsi), lampu Istirahat Tujuan yang paling penting untuk Trouble Lights adalah untuk mendukung pembuatan lampu pijar 100 watt yang terus berlanjut (ooopps. Maksud saya 95 watt, itu ilegal untuk membuat lampu 100 watt dan menjualnya di AS). Keuntungan dari lampu gangguan operasi yang sebenarnya adalah, dan salah, bahwa mereka MUNGKIN menjadi sumber vitamin D yang kecil, mengeluarkan vitaminquot sinar matahari, yang tidak ditemukan sinar matahari di bawah sepeda motor atau mobil, atau truk pickup, di malam hari, di garasi . Selain manfaat kesehatan, tujuan utamanya adalah mengonsumsi bola lampu dari jenis apa pun yang pernah Anda pasang di dalamnya. Lebih sering lebih gelap dari cahaya, namanya adalah beberapa - yang menyesatkan, karena kesalahan ketik saat menamainya, koma di antara kedua kata itu secara tidak sengaja ditinggalkan. Ada yang mengatakan bahwa nama aslinya adalah Light, Trouble. Banyak orang dapat ditemukan mengguncang alat ini saat lampu menyala dan mati. Beberapa orang, termasuk penulis omong kosong ini, telah menggunakannya untuk membakar atau merusak tempat-tempat kecil namun terlihat di kursi motor dan telah beralih ke lampu CFL yang tidak panas, namun bisa melepaskan merkuri ke udara, saat rusak. , Seperti yang akan terjadi, dijatuhkan, atau berhubungan dengan kunci inggris yang terjatuh. TUBING BENDERS, Tipe Fleksibel: Ini datang dalam berbagai desain dengan tujuan utama untuk menekuk potongan tubing yang sangat bagus ke dalam berbagai bentuk yang tidak ada gunanya, dimana Anda sekarang tidak dapat melepaskan Tabung Bending, dan karenanya harus membeli lain. TWEEZERS: Salah satu dari sedikit alat yang sering digunakan. Penjepit adalah barang yang sangat diperlukan, digunakan dengan berbagai lensa pembesar, untuk melepaskan kumis mikroskopis logam yang melonjak ke jari Anda. Seringkali digunakan dengan jarum pin atau jahit dari alat jahit pasangan, untuk memungkinkan jumlah sedikit rasa sakit saat melepaskan kumis logam. DUA-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: Alat praktis untuk menguji kekuatan tali pengikat amp jalur tanah yang Anda lupa putuskan. JAMINAN: Sepotong kertas dengan pencetakan di atasnya, mencantumkan metode yang rumit (biasanya menghabiskan biaya lebih banyak daripada alat yang awalnya dijual, termasuk ANDA yang membayar untuk pengiriman kembali) untuk mengatasi jaminan alat yang gila. Tidak ada yang menyimpan kertas Garansi karena tidak terbaca dan tidak dapat dimengerti tentang apa artinya amp semua orang berharap alat mereka akan bertahan selamanya atau, setidaknya untuk menyelesaikan pekerjaan yang Anda beli alat untuk mana saja yang lebih dulu. Jika Anda perlu menggunakan garansi yang disertakan dengan alat SNAP-ON Anda, pastikan untuk membawanya ke orang SAMA SAMA SAMA yang menjualnya kepada Anda. Jika dia sudah meninggal, pensiun, dll coba cara lain untuk mengganti alat. Kartu Garansi MUNGKIN tidak perlu dengan BEBERAPA Alat Sears Roebuck yang sangat tua atau agak tua. Jika dibeli dari benteng kualitas itu, K-Mart, dan yang membeli Sears, dan sekarang merupakan bagian dari Sears Holdings, semoga sukses. Bermanfaat jika Anda bisa membaca cetakan terkecil dan bisa menafsirkan atau setidaknya sedikit memahami Sears quotWarranty Change of the Dayquot. Alat pengrajin sekarang dibuat di China (ini bukan alat Bapa atau Kakek Anda yang dijamin seumur hidup, dan diproduksi dengan cara demikian, atau sebagian besar). Alat pengrajin sekarang agak mahal, dibandingkan dengan Harbor Freight untuk biaya usability yang setara. The Craftsman brand are often better finished, which adds nothing to their utility. However, some Craftsman tools, especially when on-sale, should be strongly considered. The Digi-Tork line of torque wrenches, of the type NOT having engraved or stamped chromy barrels, but windows for viewing the internal settings are an example. Read the warranty on anything you purchase. if you can without opening the sealed box. There are notable exceptions to Warranties, notable because they are hardly ever noted. Some manufacturers have talented Warranty Writers on staff, and some of them have been promoted to top management levels due to their ability to write warranties that either mean nothing or, that have special features that allow the product (already designed to fail at a very certain point of time) to be used as a trade-in, for another similar product, with pricing factored into the original Warranty. This is cleverly done by the Best Writers, so that customers will purchase the same product, at an increasing price, forever. The very best of these Writers learned at the feet of a vehicle battery manufacturer salesman, whose brother was the battery production design engineer, amp whose cousin was the battery product developer. They have recently come up with a lighter battery, named for an aunt of one manufacturer, Lithiel, a foreign name which is Lillian in American-speak, which resulted in the battery name of Lithium. These batteries are wonderful, because, at least for the manufacturer, they can be sold for 3 times any other battery type, and can be destroyed by discharging them near fully even once or using them on wrong chargers (manufactured by others, OR THEMSELVES) likely another company which they also own. as well as owning their own chargers to get you coming and going (hopefully going. ). WHITWORTH SOCKETS amp WRENCHES: A thread design from the 1840 era, by Joseph Whitworth, the purpose of which was to specify formal standards for thread design. Unfortunately the result was similar to the Country wherein Mr. Whitworth lived, which has never quite figured-out what to call itself. There was a Kingdom of England a Kingdom of Scotland, they combined around 1600, but it was 100 years later by the time they made up their collective minds. Ah, the Kingdom of Great Britain (and, where did Britain come from). Britain Great Britain United Kingdom I am sure I am not the only person in the Americas that is so confused. Once used for almost anything, including old British cars and motorcycles, Whitworth wrenches (dont bother to try to understand the threads, or, GASP. purchase a Whitworth screw or bolt. if there is no immediate need) are now used mainly for impersonating the 916 or 12 inch socket or wrench youve been searching for. for the last 15 minutes. Occasionally Whitworth tools, which confusingly have two sizes for EACH end of the wrench, including one with a W next to it, are used to impress people with your background of working on unreliable British machinery. No one outside of residents in old age homes in the quotUKquot understands the numbers, or how they are used, on ANY Whitworth item. Some say that the wrenches are used to tighten oil drain plugs, which makes them leak more. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts amp then throws them somewhere under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls amp hard-earned guitar calluses from your fingers in about the time it takes you to say quotOuch. Quot. Thrown wires have been known to remove eyesight permanently. 12 x 16 INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount amp other prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposing the handle. OK, lets get serious about tools. You may be thinking of jumping in and purchasing a lot of pricey tools from such as Snap-on. Even if you are planning to be a professional, I do NOT recommend that. If you do not already have a fair collection of good usable tools, then you COULD go to CostCo or similar and purchase one of the large tool sets for about 100-150 if you want to make a fast entry into tool ownership. You will STILL have to purchase some tools occasionally. After purchasing such a big set of tools OR, DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU ALREADY OWN, I suggest you purchase only what you need at any one time to augment what BMW originally provided in the bikes tool tray items. NOTE that some of the tool tray BMW tools are not needed, or not what you should have. Purchase tools, from whatever source, that you are SURE you need for right now work, and then add to your collection slowly, as your needs and wants change over the years. You WILL need at least one torque wrench. A Sears Craftsman tubular clicker will do fine a Snap-On is better, but much more expensive. There are other good brands. Dont get a simple cheap beam wrench, unless you are also getting one of the tubular clickers. If you DO get a cheap beam wrench in addition to the clicker, I suggest one of 100 ftlbs maximum indication, but not over 150 ftlbs. Consider your first tubular clicker torque wrench as a LIFETIME tool, and buy accordingly, even if a Sears Craftsman (many of us have those, and the DigiTork is fine). It should read in foot-pounds (perhaps 75 max) andor Nm. To help avoid errors, the type with two little windows, one for Nm, the other for ftlbs, is best and worst is a tubular clicker that has engravings or stampings on the shiny barrel that are confusing and hard to read and understand. Your torque wrench can be 38 or 12 inch drive. Consider selecting the drive size based on sockets you already own, if extensive. I use my 38quot square drive tubular clicker two-window torque wrench, with maximum reading of 75 ftlbs, more than any other. You will need two or three extensions, perhaps one a couple of inches, one 6, one 12 inches. While it is perfectly OK to purchase used tools if in good basic condition at yard sales, you should NOT do that for the torque wrench. I advise buying your torque wrench ONLY brand-new, because you have no good way of determining how much abuse or accuracy it has, amp a torque wrench is a CRITICAL tool. I suggest you put off getting an inch-ounce or inch-pound wrench until it is really going to be needed. You do NOT need expensive tools, except that I would not skimp on the torque wrench, get a decent one. Harbor Freight is NOT the place to purchase a torque wrench. Many tools at yard sales are worn-out, but sometimes you find tools that are poor-looking because they are somewhat rusty. and a bit of work with a wire brush will make them very usable. These may be available very cheaply with a bit of bargaining. Be sure you have basic screwdrivers, basic wrenches, a digital multimeter (even the cheapest or free ones from Harbor Freight are quite adequate), a timing light (you do not need the dial adjustable type), feeler gauges. and Allen wrenches in metric sizes. If you intend to open a shop or work for a dealership, you will need more tools. If working for a dealership, you will find the dealership stocks BMW special tools. MANY of the BMW-sold tools are often NOT expensive. Your BMW Airhead came from the factory with a GOOD, made of high quality metals, tool kit. with ONLY A FEW, probably just two, exceptions. This was especially so for the earlier models. Here are those exceptions: (1) The red-plastic-handle-short-screwdriver with the reversible Phillipsconventional tip, was almost cheap junk. Barely usable wrong shaped tip, very breakable handle. Many better screwdrivers are available. Note that most of the carburetor top screws are NOT true phillips. See 71-11-1-103-086 well below for deeper discussion. (2) The BMW provided pliers should be discarded in favor of one more useful and easier to use (the stock one is also typically way too stiffly assembled). Description of BMW original tool kits as shipped with the motorcycles: There was a Master Tool Kit, possibly you may have heard it called a PRO tool kit, or Super Tool Kit. part 71-11-1-237-840, that had extra items, amp some slightly different versions of the standard tools. This kit would hardly, in its roll bag, fit your bikes tool tray. DONT bother purchasing this kit unless you either cant help yourself, or it is amazingly cheap. SOME of the tools in the Master Kit had different COMBINATIONS of SIZES at each end. Some of those tools later became the standard for the bikes kits as shipped. In a number of instances some of the original standard tools ordering numbers were superseded by the Master (quotsuper tool kitquot) part numbers AND, both tools, in some instances, were identical, an example would be the 2736 mm dogbone tool. Either of those tool kits, regular or Master, are quite adequate for many needs. The Master Tool Kit contains too many little (or, never) to-be-used items, and is not worth purchasing. One of the things not so well-known, is that the Master Tool Kit Professionals tool set had sockets, a test lamp, etc. You are UNlikely to really need NOR WANT those items. BMW included (in the original owners tools) a BMW name amp logo printed rag. Also included was a small open end (both ends) wrench. There were TWO versions of this particular wrench. One version was 7 x 9 mm the other was 7 x 8 mm. I STILL, after all these years, do not have full information on why. BMW did have BOTH of those wrenches in a few tool kits but usually just one or the other. BMW did the same sort of thing with one other wrench: 1011 mm amp 810 mm. BMW never included any 9 mm socket in the PRO (Master) version. There were some throttle cables made with locking nuts with 9, not 10 mm size, amp some manufactured very slightly over 10 mm, strangely. I think the difference came about from what company made the various control cables for BMW. To properly maintain your Airhead, you wont need but a modest collection of other tools. DO NOT go overboard on these. Get tools when truly needed This article lists various tools, and BMW part numbers where I happen to know them. This article ALSO lists specialty tools. SOME FEW of these tools SHOULD be in your bikes tool kit. The owners set varied over the years. Perhaps you already know that a FEW of the tools were changed a bit, or eliminated. For instance, the 5 had a rod used in adjusting the steering head, which was later dropped because the later steering heads used an improved adjustment method. The points and valves tool (small feeler gauges, ETC.) assembly was dropped, after an interim period where it was first modified (with a tool being part of it that adjusted the ATE master cylinder piston stroke). This points, valves and master cylinder tool-in-one, is rather neat and takes up very little room in the bikes tool tray. THERE ARE TWO PHOTOS AND FURTHER DESCRIPTION LATER IN THIS TOOLS ARTICLE. see: 71-11-9-090-154, below, and paragraph following it too. That tool is still available, even aftermarket. Part I: Some tools you can consider, some you WILL want. and some that are a waste of money. Some are NOT needed. Discussion at various places here. Pick amp choose as neededdesired. Some tools will NOT be applicable to YOUR bike. It is a very good idea to inspect your own Airhead amp determine just what tools you need at home, amp what tools you need on the bike, amp in some FEW instances you need two of one size (I have some notes later about that). If you mix American and Metric fittings, which is NOT a good idea for your bike for several reasons, you may have to carry more tools. BMW has made hardware changes that WILL, or could, affect what tools you carry. BMW has not announced this as a special bulletin. In instances where you are purchasing nuts amp bolts from BMW, be sure that your new nuts amp bolts have the SAME WRENCH SIZE HEADS as your originals. BMW has made changes to SOME head sizes, USUALLY using the same part number . As an example, 18 mm heads, instead of the original 19 mm 16 mm heads, instead of the original 17. If you find this situation at the dealership, ASK if they have any original 19 or 17 mm they may be in the same box, as they may have same part number There is no good reason you should have to carry both 18 mm amp 16 mm wrenches besides the normally carried 19 mm and 17 mm, if you knew about this. and, now you do Just be sure to check YOUR BIKE, to be sure you have all the sizes of wrenches (and different types, AR) as needed. It is BEST to look at catalogs, including on-line dealer fiche, or see at your dealers screen or the actual tools or, whatever you have available to you that shows drawings or pictures of any tools, before you purchase any. Check the sizes of the tools YOU need, and how many of each If using a BMW part number for such as on-line fiche, or searches in general, be advised that you do NOT use hyphens in the part listing, nor spaces. Thus, as an example, the first part number, below, would be searched-for as: 71111232356. 71-11-1-232-356 This small wrench is three in one, with a 7 mm and 8 mm at one end amp middle, and a open 9 mm at one end. Not very useful in actual practice, except on earliest airheads somewhat. 71-11-1-237-858 Hook wrench. You may or may not need nor want this one. 71-11-9-090-129 Tubular two ended wrench used at the valve cover acorn nut, amp a few other places. There are much better tools. This tool fits sloppily, but usably, at that acorn nut. You MAY like to have it in the bike tool tray. I think this wrench is 15 mm and a sloppy 19 mm. Five Allen wrenches as follows. You certainly do not need BMWs own, but they are tough. 07-11-9-906-032 8 mm allen wrench 71-11-1-237-849 07-11-9-906-026 6 mm allen wrench 71-11-1-237-850 07-11-9-906-020 5 mm allen wrench 71-11-1-237-851 07-11-9-906-014 4 mm allen. was erroneously sometimes -914 (), replaced by 71-11-1-237-852 07-11-9-906-008 3 mm allen wrench 07-11-1-237-853 71-11-1-230-684 Special two-ended wrench often called a Dogbone wrench from its appearance. Fits 36 mm fork top caps, 36 mm top center acorn nut, 27 mm headlight ear nuts, 27 mm swing arm lock nuts. Originally 71-11-1-230-684. Replaced by 71-11-1-237-857 which is the SAME tool. Keep reading available is another size. I believe you should own one of these dogbone tools, and if a very late model Airhead, you might need both dogbone tools, explained below. Modify your tool in accordance with my information, if applicable to your bike. For both the 36 mm end version and the 41 mm end version, these are VERY tough metal in the flat portion, can be used with a substantial hammer if using the 36 or 41 mm ends. The 27 mm tube end is for emergency use at the swing arm nuts, although usually strong enough for use at the headlight ears fastener. The 27 mm tubular end MIGHT NOT FIT FULLY AND PROPERLY into MANY IF NOT MOST swing arm lock nut cavities, which MAY have, upon CLOSE inspection, TWO different internal ridge diameters. Grind or sand, FLATLY amp SQUARELY, the outside of the 27 mm end of your tool so it fits fully onto the swing arm thin locknut. Sand the END so any internal taper just inside the end of this tubular wrench is GONE. I NORMALLY DO NOT use the 27 mm end for the swing-arm nuts, as these nuts need about 72 foot-pounds, a level these dogbone tools will usually not allow before distorting the tubular 27 mm end. At home or in the shop I use a modified 27 mm or 1-116quot socket for the swing arm pivot locking nuts. see later in this article for photos amp comments on the needed modifications to the socket. Some folks use 36 mm (or 41 mm) sockets on the fork tube and central acorn top nuts. Be cautious, as sockets are made such that the inside of the working end have a relief taper. I suggest you sand or grind off SOME of the socket end (preferably use a lathe) so it is FLAT amp SQUARE, and there is NO inside taper at the end. Failure to do this can let the socket slip altogether too easily, and thereby round the nut corners. and also cause bruised fingers and hands. ONE OTHER modification to the dog bone wrench should be considered: Grind the flat part of the 36 mm end of the wrench for perhaps 90 or 120 degrees circularly across the top, so that the end of this 36 mm end is slightly thinner this allows the tool to fit over the top acorn nut withOUT having to remove NOR LOOSEN the handlebars. See the crudely drawn circled area on the photo below, with the line and arrow showing the direction of grinding thinner. BMW also sells this same style of dogbone wrench but with a 41 mm flat end (but same 27 mm tubular hex at other end). Used on some later Airhead models and for the Earles fork pre-Airhead models. 71-11-2-303-517. This photo is of an UNmodified dogbone wrench. but Ive identified the area for thinning the wrench, which I suggest be done on only one side of the wrench, best the TOP as shown in the photo. Bikes vary some, amp you dont likely need very much thinning. Check YOUR bike, to see how much thinning works for you. This wrench happens to be a 4127 mm type, but the 3627 looks the same except the flat end is 36 mm and is stamped 36, not 41. Some very late model Airheads need BOTH of these dogbone wrenches. These particular bikes needed 41 mm for the two forks tops and 36 mm for the central locking nut at the steering stem. Be sure you have what you need. You do not have to carry any of these dogbone wrenches in the on-bike tool kit. See Part II, below, item 26, for the SOCKET you should have, to fit the 27 mm swing arm nuts, to keep in your home garage tool kit. it is vastly better than the dog-bone tool. FOR THAT PARTICULAR PURPOSE. 71-11-9-090-139 Old exhaust pipe hook wrench used for early models through 6 that have holes(dimples) in the sides of the exhaust port nuts. Dont purchase unless you have the need. I recommend you use an aftermarket wrench if you have finned nuts. Various exhaust finned nut tools are available. The best wrench to remove a finned exhaust pipe nut is an AFTERMARKET type. For emergencies you can purchase a common Strap Wrench at autoparts or tools stores, but these CAN cause damage to the fins although that that can be minimized with a bit of old tin can or partpiece of your leather waist belt. Some carry some form of exhaust pipe finned nut wrench in the tool tray on the bike. I NEVER DO, unless taking it along for a TechDay. DO NOT FAIL TO OWN ONE OF THE AFTERMARKET WRENCHES. I show three good types below. YOU WILL use one these tools at least once a year, as YEARLY unfastening, cleaning, amp applying fresh antiseize compound is a MUST for the exhaust port finned nuts. The first photo is of a small tool-tray-sized version of a finned wrench, available from aftermarket suppliers. It is used with a square drive socket wrench, so you have to carry that tool too. I did see an Airhead owner who had welded a square nub onto another tool he carried, making it a dual-purpose tool, so it could be used as a square drive wrench. If you actually wanted to measure the torque you are applying, this tool can do that with appropriate calculations. but, so can most other exhaust port finned nut tools I do not measure the torque, I tighten by feel. I use a fair amount LESS torque than BMW specifies. I believe BMWs spec is considerably too high. To contact cycleworks, use cycleworks You MAY want to see the contact information in this article, way below, at 20. Below is an interesting version made by Guy Hendersen. This is a good tool. hendersenprecision Below is what I personally own amp use in my shop. Check with your BMW dealership amp other sources, as to where to get one like this. They are substantially-made of cast or forged aluminum. I have seen a version of this tool that had FEWER contacting surfaces, and I dont like it all that much. The one displayed, below, is mine, and contacts MORE fins than many other types, spreading the load better. For the anal types, you can use a small thin file to make them fit more perfectly, although not usually absolutely necessary. The one below works nicely with a big hammer or small sledgehammer or piece of 2 x 4 lumber or a nearby rock, when you have need for more break-away. that is, more initial starting to turn force. I do NOT carry this, nor any other, on my bike. NOTE that it is certainly possible to put a 38quot or 12quot square hole in the handle, and then use a torque wrench calculations are simple. I never do, I always tighten by feel, at less torque than BMW says 71-11-1-237-855 SHORT tire iron, was replaced by -871 which is the longer one. I prefer my on-bike tool kit, if I have tube type tires, or simply carry tools to help others with, have TWO short amp ONE long but I am fine with all being the long version. BMW discontinued the -855 short irons. If you do not have or cant find, in that instance Id purchase and carry THREE BMW long ones, -871 or, whatever you like. THREE tire irons are much nicer than having only two. There are aftermarket tire irons available that are quite good. Most are much longer, and may not fit your motorcycle tool tray. Tire repair kit: Type depends on whether or not you have tubes in your tires. It also depends on if you carry parts to repair other folks problems. While you WILL want to carry a tire repair kit, I recommend against ANY size of CO2 cartridgebottle. I HATE those high pressure cylinders seldom enough of them with you and a very small 12 volt compressor, see below, is VASTLY better. Even a cylinder operated as a compressor is better. Be sure that if you use that cylinder spark plug hole style of compressor, the compressor hose is long enough. Important to have is something to de-bead the tube-type tire and, an air compressor. I have made such tools from C-clamps with welded pieces on the anvils, amp there are commercial types available of strong light plastic that are cleverly designed. Others are metal andor massive. There are some complete kits. well, almost, of tire irons, patchesplugs, glue, whatever. available. These may include a cylinder (via spark plug hole) operated air compressor or a 12 volt compressor amp both work fine. If not purchasing a complete kit, purchase what you wantneed. You can purchase, very cheaply, under 20, a very small 12 volt electric compressor, these are all made in China. Remove the innards including the fan, make a plug for it to fit your BMW Hella style auxiliary jack. or alligator clips, as most compressores come with (or, cigarette lighter plugs) to go directly to the battery. BOTH of these types of compressors. spark plug hole. or electric. are FAR better to have than the near-worthless BMW hand pump that fits onto pegs for it on the upper left rear frame. The electric compressors are also available for nearly 80, mounted in a modest sized canbox I think them a waste of money. You can purchase small low-cost compressors at such as WalMart, amp then remove amp toss the case. WalMart also likely has really small cased versions that need no modifications except the correct BMW accessory plug (if you want that). Coleman and SLIME also sell quite small compressors that do not need the case removed. For some other ideas on tire repairs. see: stopngo. StopnGo plugs dont work as well on steel corded tires, but if you ream the hole really well on those tires, you can use them, but be prepared to replace the plugs if on a long trip. Do NOT forget a bead-breaker. unless you are confident of using your foot (never good for me, I weigh 150). or one side of the center-stand or the side-stand, etc. Be SURE you have practiced There are quite a few types of bead-breakers on the market. I carry my homemade one, made from a very large C-clamp, with some added curved pieces welded to the anvils. same shape as the wheel rim edge. so it fits the tire right next to the rim. I really do NOT ADVISE you making one like mine. I suggest you get yours from BestRestProducts link just below. they have the tire tools you might want or need. bestrestproducts 71-11-1-230-752 The stock standard on-bike tool bag itself. This is the one to get if you want one. The larger bag for the master tool kit was 71-11-1-237-870 and is NLA. 71-11-1-103-092 Pliers wside cutter. 71-11-1-237-861 A side cutter only tool. . For both, there are MUCH better ones from most hardware stores, even Harbor Freight. and MUCH cheaper than BMWs. I prefer a good heavier-duty side cutter pliers amp a good old-fashioned pump-slip-joint-pliers. Consider having a side cutter PLUS a separate tool, a slip-joint type called a Channel-Lock. BMWs version of the Channel-Lock is 71-11-1-237-862, which supposedly replaced the 71-11-1-179-522 but probably only the -179-522 is actually available, , and there are much better available, at much less cost. 71-11-9-090-154 Feeler gauge amp versions had a ATE master cylinder adjustment gauge set. This is a small riveted-together multi-tool item, of good quality. Photo below. You dont have to have this tool but these are nice AND SMALL. NO LONGER AVAILABLE FROM BMW but are, elsewheres. Particularly convenient if you have have ignition POINTS where you have little room to work in. For adjusting the valves, a common set of feeler gauges, in go, no-go, is nicer I keep those in my garage-shop. You CAN use this BMW type multi-tool for the valves. MANY FOLKS PREFER THIS BMW TOOL Minimalists carry just the BMW small standard feeler blades tool. You could also just disassemble any common feeler-gauge set amp carry just the minimum. Sizes you would want are 017quot (if you have points). 004quot or .005quot and one of .008quot or .009quot for setting valves. A gauge for spark plugs is part of the -154 tool (but that is for brand-new plugs ONLY, and is NOT the best tool for the job, which requires a wires-type. that is shown below after the -154 tool. I personally prefer this round circle type of spark plug tool, which has graduated hard wires, they include a bending tool. Those ARE better, wires do a much more accurate job on worn spark plugs as the grounding electrode gets concaved as the spark plug gap wears. This is a moot point, because I highly recommend you do NOT EVER change the gap of USED spark plugs. Even if used just once. Once a spark plug is run, the ground electrode metal undergoes a metallurgical change if you try to bend it, you may weaken it there have been quite rare instances of electrodes breaking off amp doing internal engine damage. A later version of this -154 BMW tool had a gauge for the ATE master cylinder that is under the fuel tank. ATE Master Cylinders require an adjustment, which was done with a special U-shape d flat metal tool, that BMW provided in the owners tools. This tool sets the master cylinder piston FOR THE FREE PLAY AT THE BARS LEVER. The real purpose of the tool is to be sure the piston in the master cylinder sticks outwards JUST the correct amount, so the bleed-back hole in the MC is not covered. The handlebars lever free play, which is not critical, is to be 0.16quot to 0.24quot, as measured where the lever end contacts the casting. When the lever is not under hand pressure, the BARS lever end CONTACTS the bars casting just to make this measured point clear in your mind. To set this bar lever free-play, by some published methods, you must remove the fuel tank, insert the special tool (pry off the rubber cover) into the master cylinder after loosening the cable adjuster locknut located at the MC. There is a groove in the MC piston for this gauge. Adjust so the tool is JUST free to move, then tighten the locknut. There is nothing OVERLY critical about this tool, but it should be flat, smooth, amp the thickness fairly close to the original. I measured an original one, in case you want to duplicate it: The thickness of the metal is fairly important, the original one was 0.046quotTHICK. The tool length is not important, the original was about 2quot. The width of the tool was 0.592quot. The slot in the tools long end was to a depth of 0.642quot with a full radius at the bottom the slot width was 0.363quot. It is certainly possible to do the adjustment without the tool. You can also make the tool of different dimensions, just keep the THICKNESS. NOTE that you can adjust the master cylinder so the bars lever has more free play, for smaller or less muscular hands. Below are two types of wire type spark plug tools. THESE are the proper type to use for the spark plug. The one on the left is larger, easier to use, has mm equivalents stamped on the reverse side, is NOT expensive. The one on the right is an antique of mine. Photos of spark plug adapter tools for synchronizing carburetors will be found here: bmwmotorcycletech.infosynchcarbs.htm Greg Feeler makes a round cylindrical tool for help in setting the pre-1979 points. Nice goody, not absolutely necessary, but loved by many. The first photo, below, is of a similar points tool, this one came from Northwoods Airheads. It includes a points gap feeler gauge. The dimensions of the cylindrical tool has varied a bit between who made them. They need to fit smoothly and not excessively tight. nor too loose. Typically the tool is 0.472quot OD and 0.344quot ID. Ive seen the ID be up to perhaps 0.352quot. Got a lathe Make one to fit your cam nose. Below is a photo of the original amp still-made tool by Paul Tavenier, shown on Cycleworks website, but made by Paul. REALLY NICE You could also contact Paul, see his E-mail address in the photo below. 71-11-1-234-860 The classic BMW tire pump that fit on the frame. You will find this strictly a nostalgia item, as it is a hassle to use. can take an hour to pump up a tire amp you risk bending the valve stem. Preferable is the spark plug adapter type of pump, or, especially, the 12 WalMart or other 12 volt Chinese-made compressors, as noted well above. Dont bother buying the BMW pump. 51-25-1-238-375 Cable lock. Fits in the frame tube under the tank. Plenty of choices on the market. Your Airheads steering head neck has a key lock. 71-11-1-103-086 Screwdriver. Phillips and standard single slot, the single shank reverses for this. BMWs red-plastic-handled screwdriver. Found in the BMW on-bike tool kit, has a reversible insert, probably Heyco brand, IS FLIMSY, BREAKS, often NOT THE CORRECT TOOL for the carburetor tops, and the single blade end is NOT ground properly. Mercedes uses this same worthless tool. I consider it not my choice. The cross-point tip is NOT a quality Phillips. nor is it a Pozidriv nor a Reed amp Prince tip. The Reed amp Prince, AKA Frearson, has a 75 angle, amp thus can be used with all types of matching screw sizes. Screwdrivers. for Bing CV carbs (and. ): (A whole, if reasonably short, section on SCREWDRIVERS. FOR TWO SPECIFIC BING SCREWS. well, maybe others. amp. maybe some additional information. gtgtsome teachn) BMW supplies a small red-plastic-handle screwdriver 71-11-1-103-086 in the on-bike tool kit, mentioned above. Phillips amp quotstandard flat bladequot ends, reversible. The flat blade end is lousily ground, and fits poorly into screw slots. The Phillips end is NOT a good Phillips, nor is it a PosiDrive nor is it a Reed amp Prince tip. There are MUCH better choices. Some folks purchase one of the SnapOn types, with assorted hardened magnetic tips that fit inside the handle. If you have the room and budget, the Snap-On is a QUALITY tool, that almost never wears out the tips. Snap-On and others have these in a shorty version too. Be sure you have the proper size tips. The proper Phillips size is 2 for the carburetor top screws WHEN they are Phillips screws. BMW carb top quot phillipsquot screws are not always really Phillips screws, they just look that way at a quick first glance. They could be Phillips, OR could be PoziDriv type. I suppose they could even be other shapes. One problem is that much of the Public thinks of any cross-slot screw as a quotPhillipsquot. The ancient aircraft tip screwdriver called Reed amp Prince (Frearson) works OK or relatively nicely on Phillips amp PoziDriv screws. as, of course, does the real Pozi-Driv. The PoziDriv tip is EXCELLENT for REMOVING the Phillips type, if the Phillips is way tight, and sometimes the PoziDriv will remove a rounded Phillips. Generally install a real Phillips type with a Phillips screwdriver, but the other types of screwdrivers DO work better. If the screws are frozen, you can try a variety of ideas. The Phillips type of screw was DESIGNED to not slip as much as others of its time. but, also WILL SLIP after a certain torque is reached. This is why removing a stuck Phillips screw is so annoying. especially after some wear on the screw or screwdriver. Methods of adding friction for easier removal includes valve grinding compound for a better grip. For egregious instances, I use a substantial steel block underneath on the carburetor ears to protect against breaking them. and an Impakt Driver with the PROPER TIP. Tips for interchangeable-tip type tools are available from a variety of sources, including Snap-On, whose tips are hardened nicely. The PoziDriv tip IS available. Some have installed Allen head screws at the carburetor tops. They are OK, but dont over-tighten, as many of these have a very small allen amp can round-out more easily. NO MATTER WHAT SCREW YOU INSTALL, INCLUDING THE ORIGINAL, put a tiny dab of anti-seize compound on the threads and on the taper. Some early carburetors had common slot screws. BMW amp Bing may be, and have, shipped EITHER PoziDrive or Phillips screws and I have seen Japanese ISO types. begitu. be sure that your screwdriver fits them. Remove the screws one at a time, coat the threads. and under head taper. with antiseize. and replace the screws without too much torque. you will appreciate these hints much later on. PosiDrive screws generally have some radiating lines to indicate they are not Phillips type. Pozi type screwdriver will usually work well on Phillips screws. Bottom line: Try to use a screwdriver that, upon close inspection, really fits the screw, wiggle it a bit in the screw. and look at it when it is in the screw head. Here are photos of the Posi-Drive screw amp the matching screwdriver tip. Note the differences from a Phillips. the nearly flat bottom in the screw and the corresponding flat top of the screwdriver note also the angles and the extra (lesser) splines in-between the major splines. If the screw looks the same, and no tick marks, it may be a SupaDriv. A bit more education: The Frearson (Reed amp Prince) screws used a screwdriver with a sharp tip, and a wider angle, thus the screwdrivers could be used on a wide range of screw head sizes. These are a very old (now) design, not really used since the seventies. The typical use was marine hardware and aircraft. The Phillips had a more rounded and tapered shape. There is another name, often used with or similar to the PoziDriv (AND, note that this screw is actually NOT POZIDRIVE. there is NO E on the end), and that is SupaDriv. They seem the same their respective screwdrivers will work with each other, BUT not quite perfectly. The SupaDrive allows a bit higher torque than the Pozidriv, and the screwdriver can have a modest ANGLE to the screw. thus is nice for overhead use. The POZIDRIV has tick marks, see photo above. USE OF A PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER ON THESE SCREWS WILL DAMAGE THE SCREW. Japanese JIS B 1012: These are different, but look like Phillips screws, amp CAN be used with a Phillips screwdriver. These screws are identified by a single dot or a tiny x, on the head. The Pozidriv screw and driver combination is unique amp superior to the Phillips. The tip of the driver is blunt, which helps it to seat better into the recess in the screw, unlike the Phillips which comes to a somewhat sharper (but NOT SHARP) point. This becomes a problem as the factory tooling that forges the recess in the head of the screws begins to show signs of wear. The recess becomes more amp more shallow, which means the screwdriver will bottom-out too soon and will cause the screwdriver to cam-out. The second unique feature is the large blades on the driver have parallel faces, where the Phillips blades are tapered. The straight sides of the driver allow additional torque to be exerted without fear of cam-out. A Phillips driver will have problems driving a screw with a Pozi-recess, as a Pozi-driver-screwdriver would have little luck driving a Phillips head screw. It is possible to drive Pozi-drive screws with a Phillips driver, but you will need to grind down the tip slightly, and expect some slipping to occur. For a much more complete treatment of these, AND various other screw heads: en.wikipedia.orgwikiListofscrewdrives 71-11-1-237-854 PIN (also called a drift). You need one of these for the holes in your BMW tubular wrenches, and miscl. uses. Some folks have sharpened one end to a point, other end to a sharp chisel-scraper, having three tools in one. I dont, as I like to use the drift as a drift. You can use a fat screwdriver blade, for turning your tubular wrenches. 71-11-1-237-856 two-ended socket (tubular) wrench, also see 71-11-9-090-105. 71-11-1-237-859 point contacts file. Dont bother owning this. Filing points is an emergency fix, and I do NOT recommend it except for that emergency use, and you can find this elsewheres. 71-11-1-237-860 tire gauge, pencil type. Dont bother with this BMW tool. Are better choices. 71-11-1-237-863 Test lamp, called a Control Lamp by BMW. Dont bother getting the BMW one, unless you simply must have it. BUT, DO get a test lamp tool. You can get a simple test lamp with alligator clip on the long lead amp a sharp point on the end, from any autoparts store (or Harbor Freight for free or cheap). Get the type that does NOT contain a battery. Radio Shack Harbor Freight, most hardware and auto parts stores also have them. CARRY the non-battery-containing type of test lamp tool on the bike amp LEARN HOW TO USE IT This is a very simple but VERY USEFUL tool. It is OFTEN vastly faster amp easier to use when tracing an electrical problem. Shown below are two types, either is fine. MULTIMETER: You dont absolutely need a multi-meter (digital volt-ohm-ammeter-diode tester, etc.) to carry on the bike. If you want one for the bike, get one that is small. Get a DIGITAL type, not mechanical (analog), perhaps for free from Harbor Freight. SEE my article bmwmotorcycletech.infomultimeters.htm . Below photo is a Harbor Freight freebie, still packaged. There are two or three versions of these from Harbor Freight, and all are GOOD. This particular one has the OFF-ON slider switch. DO own at least one of these types of tools, and learn how to use it (see the article). 71-11-1-230-000 A thin round rod was used on the OLD 5 style steering head clamp arrangement, to hold the collar during adjustment. You dont need this and COULD substitute an allen wrench already in the kit. The 5 parts can be replaced by the 6 type parts, then the steering head is easier to adjust. That modification IS recommended by me. 71-11-1-237-872 15 mm x 17 mm fork ring wrench 71-11-1-237-864 through -869: These are a ratchet handle drive, sockets and extension, and there is NO good reason to purchase them nor to carry them in your bike tool kit. You probably have similar or better tools from other manufacturers anyway. The sockets were, in mm sizes: 13, 12, 10, 6. That makes them of little use. 71-11-1-237-841 7 mm x 8 mm open end wrench 71-11-1-237-842 10 mm x 11 mm open end wrench 71-11-1-237-843 12 mm x 13 mm open end wrench 07-11-9-999-119 12 mm x 14 mm open end wrench You need TWO of these wrenches, at the same time, to set the valve clearances: 71-11-1-237-844 14 mm x 17 mm wrench. GET TWO, carry both. 71-11-1-237-845 17 mm x 19 mm wrench. GET TWO, carry both. 71-11-1-237-846 24 mm wrench. 71-11-1-237-847 10 x 12 box end wrench, which replaces 71-11-1-230-579. 71-11-1-237-848 19 x 22 box end wrench. You MIGHT want two. Alternator rotor removal tool for the stock BMW Bosch Alternators: ALWAYS carry this alternator rotor removal tool. Either get the official BMW tool, 88-88-6-123-600, or get a good substitute from the aftermarket. DO NOT. use the homemade tool, on the right in the photo below, unless you are SURE, absolutely SURE, it will work properly amp WILL NOT NOT BEND, NOR WILL IT COCK SIDEWAYS, INSIDE THE ROTOR. The photo below shows three types of these tools. The factory tool is similar to the left amp center types. Those are grade 8.8 hardened, and so marked on the heads. The right-most tool consists of two pieces, one is simply a hardened bolt in grade 8.8 amp the other piece is a roller bearing part, used as a spacer pin. Use of the tool on the right, shown as Not Approved is for absolute emergencies, as there can be a VERY serious problem if dimensions are wrong for the top portion, in either or all the diameter amp length amp end taper. If you INSIST on making this tool, it must be of grade 8.8 steel or 10.9 steel. DO NOT use an old drill shank for the upper piece. they can be brittle. If you do NOT use a proper hardened tool, or in some instances the home-made 2-piece type as shown in the photo: It may BEND inside of the rotor, amp then you are in DEEP trouble. Besides the stock Bosch rotor, where I recommend you do not use two piece tools as shown. ALSO DO NOT use any such two piece tools in aftermarket rotors, such as the EnDuraLast Alternator or the Omega Alternator. YOU HAVE NOW BEEN WARNED. Part II: Tools you MIGHT want: 1. 8 mm SMALL (not long) combination wrench. An 8 mm box end on one end preferably a 12 point, but harder to find), with an 8 mm open end wrench on the other end. You MAY want to BEND this wrench with an oxyacetylene torch. Use for the diode board nuts located on the REAR side of the upper timing chest casting wall, that is, below, forward, of the starter motor area. BUT, see item 2, below. 2. SpinTite (or equivalent brand) TUBULAR wrench, 8 mm hex size female socket on end of the barrel, usually with a wood or plastic handle but METAL handle is better than the type of plastic handle that does not have the shank strongly mounted in the plastic. You might be able to substitute SOME types of 14quot drive 8 mm sockets, or modify such. I modify the working end of my 8 mm tubular wrench, so there is NO internal taper that would prevent use on a very thin nuts. I also grind the outside diameter down a fair amount because I use these tool in tight quarters. Do NOT overheat the end when grinding the very end or the diameter. Check your diode board nuts to be sure your tool fits properly. This tool is useful not only for the diode board outer (forward) nuts, but in removing other nuts. This type of tool is quite useful for the alternator brush holder, for instance. The T-handle type (especially if all metal) is fine but does not fit in the tool tray as nicely. In the photo below, is a notation on thinning the outside diameter, if need-be, usually to properly fit the forward diode board nuts. Check the fit of your tubular wrench at that place. If the END of your tubular wrench has a slight and short INside taper (most come that way), consider sanding or grinding it, keeping the end FLAT. In the below photo, this is one of my 8 mm types, which I KNOW has a good construction INside. 3. 36 mm socket, SQUARED-OFF at the working end as shown below, eliminating the internal taper at that end. Do this on a lathe, unless you are good at grinding or sanding, as the end MUST BE FLAT AND SQUARE. See notes on photo. The comment about pressuring is because the fork springs are often under pressure during installation of a top cap, which has an non-threaded portion and a threaded portion, and can be hard to push down to engage the threads. You do not have to have the wood piece. Note that the Dogbone wrench does a good job of loosening and tightening the fork tops, so this socket tool is something for home use, IF you want one. Not a must. 4. 88-88-6-002-560 or equivalent BMW tool to allow a torque wrench to properly fit the driveshaft bolts at the transmission output flange. USUALLY a home tool. The BMW-sold tool is sort-of crude It consists of a 38quot square drive female part with a slit in the side. Pressed amp brazed into that slit is a 12 point 10 mm off-set box end wrench. That box end wrench was simply a double ended wrench of some sort, cut to be shorter, one end discarded. When using this tool, typical is to use it straight-out with the torque wrench, not at any angle to the torque wrench. The center-to-center distance of the working ends of this tool, compared mathematically to the distance between the working center of the torque wrench square drive amp the center of pressure of the torque wrench handle, will determine the torque wrench setting THAT WILL BE LOWER than the book value, due to the added length. In ALL instances except use at 90, the torque wrench will be set to LESS than the value that will be APPLIED. If the tool is at 90 to the tubular torque wrench, there is NO correction needed. I am fine with you using 1 drop of Loctite BLUE on clean threads, then 25 ftlbs. The official maximum torque amount is 29 footpounds. I wish to make CLEAR that the torque value, my suggested 25 to 29 ftlbs, is the torque APPLIED to the bolt. Old Airheads (and even PRE-Airheads) came from the factory with a split lock-washer under the bolt head. If you have washers, including split washers, remove the bolts amp washers amp get the new shorter BMW bolts amp do NOT use any washers. Details on this website: bmwmotorcycletech.infodrvshftboltstoolstorque.htm Heres are HINTS. if you dont want to purchase a -560 tool, or a Snap-On adapter, or adaptor of some sort such as shown below, here is how to get by for possibly no cost: Dig into your tool drawer for a combination 10 mm wrench. That means it has a 10 mm 12 point box end and the other end is an open wrench. If you are lucky, you have a more rare wrench, that is 10 mm box at one end and 11 mm box at the other end. That is a preferred wrench for this hint: The 10 mm 12 point box end fits the driveshaft bolts. If the other end is a 10 mm open end, simply use that with the 38quot drive of the torque wrench, and do not let it slip out while in use. If you use this wrench as an adaptor with your torque-wrench, straight out, you must reduce the torque wrench setting, in accordance with the method shown in my torque wrench article (with notes on being sure). If you use the wrench as an adaptor with your torque wrench but at 90 degrees to the torque wrench, you need NOT do calculations, just read the value off the torque wrench (29 ftlbs max. for U-joint bolts at the transmission output flange on Airheads). If you have the rare 10mm11mm dual box end, the 11 mm BOX end fits the 38quot square drive of the torque wrench I prefer either of the two tools below, or its home-made equivalent. You CAN use the dual box-end wrench in the on-bike tool tray, with a rag to protect your hand and a GOOD GRUNT, with or without a torque wrench. Using a known good torque wrench setup IS BEST. Three photos here of the -560 type offset wrench are the actual factory tools. The 4th photo, of the flat tool is a small amp simple tool, available from cycleworks, that will work well for you. You may have to use a fine file on the square hole (HARD metal too) to have it fit YOUR torque wrench perfectly. It is 1.5 inches center to center, and very hard metal, which I think is laser-cut, so any filing takes awhile. You really dont need to carry these tools in you tool tray on the bike. There have been instances in which someone has questioned just what BMW means by its torque figures. This question arises now amp then for other areas of the bike, not just the output driveshaft bolts. Using a torque wrench at a limited clearance area of such as the driveshaft U-joint flange bolts requires an adaptor, see above 4 photos, which can, if used at any angle to the torque wrench besides exactly 90, add to the working-length of the torque wrench, INcreasing the torque value from that set on the torque wrench. My torque wrench article describes using extensions more precisely. but, here, I will add brief commentary. When this question comes up, it almost always is in regards to the tightening method for the 4 driveshaft bolts, that hold the U-joint flange to the transmission output flange, because you cannot put a torque wrench with a socket, or with an extension to the socket, directly onto the bolt, as the U-joint will interfere. BMWs torque figures are the value on the bolt itself, whether or not you use an adaptor between the torque wrench amp the bolt. This is standard for industry, amp applies unless specifically noted to be different by the manufacturer. BMW never made this clear amp BMWs own wording, particularly when in English, can be wrongly interpreted. The factory specified torque is what IS to be applied to the BOLT, amp you MUST calculate the adjustment factor for the torque wrench if the adaptor is not used at 90. In every instance, where the adaptor extends the working distance of the torque wrench, the torque wrench will need to be set to a value LESS than the value of the actual torque you want applied to the bolt head. I recommend you use the adaptor straight-out. Any angle besides straight out or 90 requires trigonometry calculations. If used straight out, the calculations are simple mathematics. To make this 100 clear, if you use the adapter straight out from the torque wrench, you MUST do calculations, but NO trigonometry is needed. 5. 6 mm and 8 mm male Allen Wrenches with 38quot square drives. The 6mm one is used for adjusting the swing arm with your torque wrench. The 8 mm one is used at the lower triple clamp bolts. Home tools. 6. Piston ring compressors: One of the ways of installing pistons is to insert them into the cylinders so only the hole for the piston pin is showing, then install the pin and its locks. Another method is to leave the piston on the rod when a cylinder is RR. You need strong fingernails to compress the rings, and must do so carefully in any event. you do not want to break the fragile rings or damage a piston. Many prefer a ring compressor tool. If you are likely to almost never need a ring compressor more than once, and are a cheapskate (perfectly OK in my book), then you can make one from a strip you cut from a metal coffee can or, use a very large band clamp, etc. If you want a real ring compressing tool, I suggest you get one that allows it to be used even when the cylinder is partly onto the studs. That means a compressor with detachable bands. A nice tool is made by KD Tools, their model 850, a set of bands and handle with excellent adjustability. About 50-60 when discounted. do an internet search. Whether or not to own such a tool is debatable, unless you do a lot of piston installations. 7. Torque wrenches. For your first one, get a GOOD QUALITY tubular clicker. Dont skimp on quality. you need this wrench to be reliable, accurate and to last a lifetime. Snap-On torque wrenches are lovely, but very pricey. Craftsman DigiTork from SearsK-mart is OK. Bottom reading is going to be maybe 5 to 8 foot-pounds, top reading of 75 ftlbs. If you go to 100 or more ftlbs for a maximum reading torque wrench, then it is very likely that the lower end will be less usable and less accurate. I recommend EITHER a half inch drive, amp obtain a 12 to 38 inch square drive adapter or, a 38 drive torque wrench, with a 38 to 12 adapter. Consider the socket set you already own. You will also want a 2 inch and a 6 inch and a 12 inch extension (all male-female) in the same drive size as the torque wrench. This allows you to space the torque wrench outward if you need to. even if you already have deep-well sockets. If you already have an BEAM type torque wrench, of the type that twists a pointer, that is fine but if not a good pricey DIAL-beam type, you should NOT use it for critical things like head nuts. You can use just about any type of torque wrench for such things as the 27 mm swing arm locking nuts as the setting is not critical. There ARE places on the motorcycle where a torque considerably over 100 ftlbs is needed, such as at the transmission output flange large nut, and rear drive, but you are unlikely to need it more than once or a few times in your lifetime. Some tubular clicker wrenches are hard to read best to get one with TWO WINDOWS readouts. one in ftlbs, one in Nm. The Sears Craftsman DigiTork is like that. SOME, particularly inexpensive Chinese-made torque wrenches, have awful faint clicks, by feel and sound, at low settings. Do NOT trust any tubular clicker wrenches at the lower end of the adjustment range. that means under about 8 of the maximum setting. I DISlike tubular torque wrenches that have chromed amp lightly engraved or stamped tubes that are hard to read. you do NOT want to make a mistake in reading your wrench STORE your torque wrench at a LOW setting, but NOT below on-scale. Three articles are on this website on torque wrenches and torque settings: 71A, 71B, 71C. Torque wrenches are a primary tool for the home mechanic and the professional. 8A. Tool to hold crankshaft from moving forward: If you want to remove your flywheel for any reason, be sure to do two things first. Set the engine to OT (top dead center O berer T otpunkt). The OT mark should be someplace in the timing window located near the oil dipstick. It is a MUST to mechanically block the crankshaft from moving forward before removing a flywheel. This can be done in several ways. I recommend you NOT use a towel or stuffed-rag in the timing chest. A neat method (MINE) is to just make a tool out of a piece of 6 mm Allen wrench material, and SQUARELY weld a 1quot (or so) steel disc or fender washer, maybe 116quot thick, onto one side, making the length such that its Allen end fits into the alternator bolt, and the disc end presses against the outer timing chest cover. Usually 34 inch overall. gtBUTgtgt The length should be such that you can obtain some light pressure by the cover, the cover being screwed back onto the engine LIGHTLY. YET. the cover cant quite fully be brought back to the engine surface due to this tools length. THAT ensures there IS some pressure. This is for your home tools. but. since so small, you could carry it in the tool tray on the bike, but you are UNlikely to ever need it while touring unless to help someone else with a major problem. The last time I made one of these, I made it to fit my 1983 and 1984 R100RT bikes, and the OVERALL length actually was 34quot. There is a cautionary article on this website, dealing just with the crankshaft problem, with additional details in case you accidentally () goof-up. Go to: article 81, but here is a direct clickable link: bmwmotorcycletech.infoflywheelremovalwarning.htm This is the tool I invented and made for myself and a few other folks. Dont want to make that tool Just use a 8 mm bolt, screw it into the rotor leave enough of the bolt sticking out of the rotor, so that the front cover will bear on it. Be sure the bolt is slightly pressured by the outer cover all the time the flywheel is being removed and is removed, and during re-assembly of the flywheel to the crankshaft. NOTE that the only trouble with using the bolt method is if you rotate the flywheel. the bolt might also rotate, and unscrew enough to allow the flywheel to then move forward. a big NO NO You can avoid this by rotating the flywheel, facing it from the rear, ONLY counter-clockwise, which will tend to loosen the 8 mm bolt from the rotor, but that means it tightens against the outer cover, putting additional pressure on the crankshaft, which is fine, if that is all that happens. JUST BE CAREFUL. NO WAY do you want that crankshaft moving forward. 8B. Flywheel holding tool. This tool allows you to unscrew, or tighten, the 5 flywheel bolts. See item 24 for more clutch and flywheel tools. 9. This is a tool that is very simple, solves a problem, but that you may never need, never use. ZERO cost. On the FAIRED models, BMW uses a tubular (hollow) rivet, to fasten a black plastic trim piece (that may contain a clock amp voltmeter) to the fairing. You need a tool to replace rivets or tighten loose rivets for various reasons, such as fairing repairs amp installations, loose dash pieces that can cause difficult to find noises, installation of Parabellum windshields that use an additional black plastic cover piece that fastens to two centered BMW rivets, ETC. The BMW hollow rivets need to be moderately tightly fastened, but do not over-tighten. The problem is how to tighten them without spending for a special pliers tool. The secret is very simple You obtain a drywall screw. The proper size is just a wee bit too large in the drywall screws threads diameter. Carefully grind (do not overheat the screw which is very tough unless overheated) the threaded area as in the photo, so that the threaded area will just smoothly enter the chuck of a common pop-rivet installer hand lever tool, using the 316quot hole diameter chuck. Be sure that you grind the screw threads over the full length, as the screw must fit the rivet so the screw HEAD will be able to push into the rivet To use, insert the screw from underneath via fingers or forceps, use the pop-rivet tool on the outside. The reason to not use over a 1-12quot screw is so it is easier to insert from underneath. IF the outside of the rivet does not flatten properly (you want the ends cup-shaped), reverse the screw for the final moderate tightening. Do all the rivets, there are eight of them. HINT: If installing a Parabellum windscreen, BEFORE installing the rivets, sure the black plastic cover piece from Parabellum does NOT interfere with the top of the gauges, if it does, sand or file or grind it a bit, otherwise it will make squeaking noises while riding, and wear the top bezels. 10. You wont find too much need for this tool, but when you need it you will cuss without it. This tool is called an impact driver. The brands I have (I have TWO) are named IMPAKDRIVER made by the H.K. Porter company and, Snap-ON model PIT120. These neat gadgets are hit with a metal hammer, while you hold selectable rotational direction (CW or CCW) pressure on the tool. The hammer blow rotates the assembly in the tool around a hidden internal cam, which pushes the tool tip (lots of tips available) into the screw or whatever, and that cam causes rotation at the same time This tool was a MUST with old Japanese bikes, using it with CCW force for LOOSENING nasty sort-of phillips screws, that had corroded and seized in the engine cases. With a few assorted bits you will find it valuable when needed. NOTE that the right photo shows an adapter that allows common hex tool tips to be used. Use these tools VERY CAUTIOUSLY on such as carburetor top screws dont break the carburetor. support the area underneath the carburetor ear you are working on These impact tools are good for nuts amp bolts, not just screws. I get this tool out BEFORE I round out a screw head. These tools have a 38quot square drive, thus can be used with your sockets. etc They are a simple way to avoid a much more expensive electric or air-operated impact hammer and are much safer to use. 11. T-handled Allen wrenches with fairly long Allen shanks. Get a small assortment of these, you wont need any larger than 6 or at most, but UNlikely, 8 mm. Do NOT get the cheap plastic handled ones unless the metal extends, and cross-wise at the handle end. DO get the METAL handled types. Most plastic handled ones are not good and will eventually slip inside the handle. or break BUY QUALITY. You will have these for a lifetime and WILL find these valuable. It is up to you if the tips are the ball type Allen or regular Allen. The ball type can be more versatile but I am not pleased with some for strength and toughness. I DO use the ball type for the screws at the oil filter cover, when they are Allen, and not hexhead. T-handled tools are for your home shop. SOME folks carry one of these, and a shortened L allen wrench, when on long tours, needed when changing the oil filter. You can drill the RT fairing for one of those screws if it is hard to get to. T-handled tools are also made with socket ends, turning them into tubular wrenches. Be sure the inside depth is good enough, and square the socket ends. Those are generally not for tightening nor loosening, just installing. 12. Jumper wires (2). Keep this on your motorcycle. You need two types. The first type is used to bypass the stock or aftermarket 3 spade terminals voltage regulator. It can be 4 or 5 inches or so of insulated stranded copper conductor wire, 18 ga is OK, nothing critical about wire size. At each end put a MALE standard 14quot spade connector. The second jumper wire is an insulated test lead jumper, 18 or 16 gauge is fine. Make this with a standard medium size alligator clip at each end (rubber boot insulator covered). Maybe 4 feet to 6 feet long. 13. HINT: when trying to clean off old gasket from aluminum parts, spray WD40 on the old gasket remnants, or a gasket remover solvent (autoparts stores), and use a plastic scraper, not metal unless you are very careful. Plastic blades are available from many sources, including your local auto-parts store. Remember, it is easy to nick an aluminum surface with a metal razor blade or metal scraper. and those nicks can often then be places for oil leaks. 14. You can substitute certain sizes of tools, such as wrenches and sockets. SOMETIMES rather often, as many tools and items are not perfectly sized. Allen wrenches and screwsbolts tend to be more precise, so substituting may not work for them, but you can try. S ubstitutions to try, particularly for wrenches. Ive even seen folks purposely modify extra wrenches they had. and grind the number off the wrench, and etch the new size onto the wrench. Remember that this also works with your sockets 8 mm, which is .315quot try 516quot which is .3125quot 11 mm, which is .433quot try 716quot which is .4375quot 13 mm, which is .512quot try 12quot which is 0.500quot 14 mm, which is .551quot try 916quot which is .5625quot 16 mm, which is .630quot try 58quot which is .625quot 17 mm, which is .669quot try 1116quot which is .6875quot 19 mm, which is .748quot try 34 inch which is .750quot 27 mm, which is 1.06quot try 1-116quot which is 1.0625quot 30 mm, which is 1.81quot try 1-316quot which is 1.875quot 15. A credit card amp a phone card maybe a cell phone. Any old cell-phone, whether you have a cell-phone paid service OR NOT, can be used to dial 911 for emergencies. Emergencies are not that you need gasoline or have a flat tire although these have been used for that purpose. Old cell phones for such uses are often available free. They dont work unless you keep them charged 16. Spark plug shorting tools. Information AND PHOTO on those, utilized when synchronizing carburetors, will be found here: bmwmotorcycletech.infosynchcarbs.htm . Some keep them in the tool tray on the bike. Here is a source if you dont want to make them: northwoodsairheads 17. You may have reason to remove amp replace a pin contact in one of BMWs connectors (or, maybe you are replacing a poor connector or multi-pin connector). BMW has a tool for this: 88-88-6-611-132. -131 and -133 are also pin removal tools. These tools are . If you are careful, you can use something like a very thin Jewelers screwdriver or modified very thin finishing nail. Push the very thin tool in from the wire end, release the wee tab that sticks out amp locks the pins into position to a corresponding notch in the inner body of the connector. The -132 tool, the only one I have specs for, has a 3.75 mm plunger diameter and a 3.9 mm ID barrel. that is 3.9 mm x 4.4 mm OD. I do not own any of these BMW tools. I use a thin jewelers screwdriver, or, special tools from my electronics shop. The very thin jewelers screwdriver works almost every time, however. 19. Engine Cooling Fan: Go to one or more local home heating contractors, until you find a cooperative one (quotsure, you can have an old squirrel cage motor, for freequot). Heatingcooling contractors are always removing old home heaters amp installing new heaters. MOST of these old heaters contain a perfectly good, if well-used motor, that has its shaft coming out both ends, and the shafts have mounted to them squirrel-cage type rotary blade fans. There is a surrounding metal shrouding that you also want. it is all one assembly, and most often that assembly is inside the old heater sheet metal case, which you will have to remove. Most of these motors are substantial capacitor-start types, with plug tap selection for speeds. Adapt a power cord. If needed, make up some sort of simple wood piece to keep your new ENGINE COOLING FAN from rolling about on your garage floor (especially at start-up) amp maybe to aim the air output slightly upward. You now have a powerful adjustable output high volume fan. Put some chicken wire over the intake ends of the fan, held by sheet metal screws, to prevent things in your shop, like rags, or your dogcat, from flying into the fans. The lowest speed setting is usually the correct one. This type of fan is VERY useful during synchronizing carburetors and for cooling your bike off rapidly for other work. 20. Cylinder stud thread repair: Ed Korn previously did business as Cycle Works, in the town name of Oregon, in the State of Wisconsin. He did machine work, designed amp made LOTS of tools (amp some parts) for everything from the Isetta cars through the 2 era amp for all Airheads. Some were VERY cleverly designed, amp he had instructions, videos. all sorts of stuff. Doing a run-through of the website was informative to many folks. Ed sold the business to Dan Neiner, who runs it as Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805 Haskins Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216 (913) 871-6740. Dancycleworks ((NOT )). The website is: cycleworks ((NOT )). Dan Neiner will sell. or loan-out. his version of the cylinder stud hole thread repair TOOL amp Helicoil items for 45. I suggest you review what is on that website. There are a LOT OF TOOLS FOR AIRHEADS, and other BMW bikes. See other areas of my website about Ed. Also see 22 below. High Precision Devices (HPD) of Boulder, Colorado, has its own version of the thread repair tool. Very nice it is too, and uses proprietary inserts. hpd-onlinestud-tool.php (303) 447-2558 Costly. Quality Jeff Trapp jefftrapp246gmail northwoodsairheads There is further information in my REFERENCES article on Jeff. He will sell tooling, but he also has available a complete quotloanerquot kit. for repairing bad cylinder stud hole threads. northwoodsairheadscyl-stud-jig.php NOTE: ALL these particular thread repair tools (Ed Korns AND Jeffs) were probably originally inspired by John Chays design. The background of the cylinder stud thread repair tools goes back to around the year 2000. Oak (Orlando Okleshen, THE airhead GURU in the USA) and Oaks precision-machinist friend, John, made a very precise toolingjig for this job. This tooling became the basis for the ones made by EdKorn and Jeff Trapp. I had my own crude version in the early seventies, made from a bad cylinder amp hardened commercially available drill guides. The stock cylinder base holes are not precisely-enough located, IMO, I had to very slightly, offset a couple of the holes to be perfect. amp it is almost better to make a base from scratch. I have made tooling to repair bad threads at the cases, where the 4 cylinder studs fasten. You can make your own if you have the machinery. If you wish to use an old cylinder, use a lathe to cut off the major portion of a later model cylinder (1976 and later are more precise), amp some of the spigot. Then get some long commercial hardened drill guides (), drill amp ream the base holes. Do your machining for these holes precisely, and at exactly 90 degrees, on such as a milling machine. Stud centers are 93 mm x 72 mm, amp I suggest you leave some of the spigot, note that there are early sizes of 97 mm, and all later ones are 99 mm. Unless you have the machinery to make things in a precise manner, and wish to spend the money on the hardened guides, you are best advised to see the above sources, to purchase or rent, if you need to repair pulled studs. WARNING There have been instances of damaged motors from failure to remove all chips from from the engine block and oil pan, from drilling and tapping operations on the engine block. Dont forget to remove the oil pan amp clean it out clean the threaded holes from inside amp not just outside. I use compressed air to do it. When trying to clean the cylinder top holes, also supply the air at a point down the oil gallery where the tiny chips will go out the top studs areas, NOT further into the engine in fact, THAT should be done before the pan removal. See the oiling sketch bmwmotorcycletech.infooilsketch.htm 21. Tool for the conrod bolts: This is a 10 mm triple-fluted tool, which looks something like a Torx. One description of this tool, the one NAPA uses, is quot10 mm, 12 point, fluted wrenchquot. You will use this tool with a 13 mm or 12quot socket. The NAPA part number for the tool is 2305. The tool is also available from Cycleworks, see above or my references article: bmwmotorcycletech.inforeferences.htm. 22. SEALS amp BEARING PULLERS: On later wheels to 1984, outer races are removed mechanically amp hubs are NOT heated for this, although modest heat is not injurious. An exception is the 1978 REAR DRUM BRAKE SNOWFLAKE WHEEL. ALL earlier wheels MUST be heated. Contact cycleworks, see 20 above, for a clever tool for removing wheel bearing outer races (also works for swing arm bearing outer races) or, have a mechanic with the correct puller even a dealership do it for you. For those with larger wallets, get the Kukko puller, which works well in such blind holes, where the inner edge of the outer race is not easily grippable. usually due to it having the same diameter as the surrounding supporting metal. The Kukko needed is 215, used with the 222 bridge. With a 216 puller, same bridge, you can do the steering head bearings. NOTE that some axles, such as your front axle, may be very useful NOTE REGARDING PULLERS: You may have occasion to remove various bearings, etc. The Kukko tools, above, are nice, but if your wallet is small, you might be interested in cheaper items. Harbor Freight also has an inexpensive equivalent for the above BLIND HOLE puller. I do not know if they sell kits with attachments that are large enough. adapters. to fit such as the outer races in the wheels. For SEALS, such as for the crankshaft seal, transmission input shaft seal, amp many others, you may be able to use a small punched or drilled hole in the metal seal, amp screw-in a drywall or sheet metal type screw, amp pry on it. Often some HEAT helps. For some situations you might want to purchase a cheap seal puller, like the Lisle 58430, check the Internet for that cheap tool. Harbor Freight does have an inexpensive seal puller, like the Lisle. Here is a photo of their SEAL puller: 23. Various types of rubber tipped adaptor tools for grease guns are available for greasing the swing arm, via greasing into the Allen wrench hex recess of the swing arm adjustor pin. Chainsaw dealers sell a chain saw greasing tool. Napa sells a rubber tipped air blow gun nozzle 90-583. Napa also has a replacement tip 715-1201 which is for the 715-1217. They carry a couple other types of tip tools, one of which can use the 715-1217. These are actually greasing tool items. 24. There is a factory tool to help line up the clutch disc. You dont absolutely have to have one, as your eyeball is possibly good enough, or, it will take you a try or three. CycleWorks probably has an alignment tool available. You can also get them from other sources. wirewerkes has several versions. If you want to make this type of tool, here is MY version (see the RIGHT MOST item in the photo, below): The tool, overall, is roughly 133 mm long. Starting at the taper tip: The non-tapered portion of the tip is 8.2 mm diameter and 5 mm long. The taper is a simple rounding, or, just do a 90 tip, not sharp though. So, with taper, the tip is a tad longer than 5mm. maybe 8 or 10 or whatever. Back of the tip is the second section: 29 mm long by 20.7 mm in diameter. The handle portion is 95 mm long and 22 mm in diameter. Hyperlink to a drawingsketch of that tool, for your machinist (or): bmwmotorcycletech.infoCLUTCH TOOL.pdf. Print it, annotate it, have it made, or dyi. Here is a photo of some of the factory clutchflywheel releaseremoval tools, AND, of that clutch disc alignment tool. Clutch release tools are not needed for the 1981 type clutches. See also 8A and 8B, above 25. Homemade universal shock absorber tool. Simple adapters to fit the coils are not shown here. You do NOT have to have this tool. YOU CAN make a quite adequate one from TWO round quotFloor Flangesquot which you can get from any plumbing or hardware store. With two pieces of all-thread some nuts and washers, that is all you need. For some shocks, you boredrill out the center hole in the floor flanges some. You do NOT need the mounting eye holder amp the plate, marked in red in the below photo, which is in MY slightly more fancy tool. You will save a lot of effort by just buying the floor flanges. I happened to have metal, amp machinery to make what is below, you do NOT NEED TO If you want an exceptionally nice tool, get the Ohlins shock absorber tool. In the below photo of a quickly-made tool I made, the top plate is flat, not counter-bored below. I did not have a lathe nor mill available to me at the time. By making the underside of the plate have a milled area that is of approximately the diameter of the spring diameter, yet that lathe made or milled area is on the underside ONLY, then the top plate will not walk from the spring moving sideways, which is a Pain In The Ass using my tool without it. Make the top plate of rather thick material, aluminum is OK, half-inch or more is a good thickness, and add the underside counterbore area. you will be GLAD you did. If making another top plate today, Id use my lathe, probably make it 34quot thick aluminum, and with a goodly deep counterbore area. 26. 27 mm or 1-116quot 12 point socket, 12quot square drive (EITHER size will work fine). Modified. Home tool. This is for the swing arm nuts and you MUST modify the socket OD (to enable fitting all the swing arm cavities), and square the end (eliminates the internal taper). 12 point is FAR better than 6 point. as the outer walls are much stronger after modifications. Use a lathe, or grind, sand, etc. the open 12 point end, so that there is NO internal taper at the very end, in other words, flattensquare that end off. BE SURE that it is SQUARE to the main body. you dont want it fitting poorly onto the thin nut of the swing arm. Do this step first. MUCH neater, nicer, and will fit best, if you do it on a lathe. THEN: Use a lathe, or grinding wheel, etc. and make the O.D. 1.35quot for a distance of 1116quot from the 12 point end. This is not critical, but the diameter must be small enough to allow the socket to fit into your airhead swing arm frame cavity. past the TWO diameters there (on most). This is a FAR better tool than trying to use the 27 mm tubular end of the dogbone wrench You do not have to use a 12quot square drive, you CAN use a 38quot square drive, if that is what your sockets amp wrench already are. Cycleworks has this and MANY other tools for sale. 28. I am sometimes asked about how to deal with the 7 type fork lowers, with the 13 mm nut with the Allen wrench hex in the middle. If you try to loosen the nut, the allen bolt rotates. I have three solutions there are others. One solution is to modify a deep socket for a slot along the side, into which you can insert the short end of a common Allen wrench. Another solution is to purchase an offset socket wrench. McMaster-Carr has one, item 7247A52. My final suggestion (there can be PLENTY of tools for this job, many you can make), is an interesting tool, see: culayerJoestools.htm 29. ONE of the various types of broken screwbolt extractor that I use. Dont know the name of this type, but they are often called stud removal tools, and my set in the photo came from Bridgestone Tools, a very long time ago. They do not break as easy as an EZ-OUT brand (long removing tool) does. A possible disadvantage in some few situations, as the working end of these is short (but usually works more reliably, and does not break). SNAP-ON has SIMILAR extractors. Ask me about proper usage of these types of tools when to use a Dremel, or when to use an Electric Discharge Machining (EDM). I have used EZ-OUTS, amp many others, successfully. You can too, if you are LUCKY and CAREFUL. OVER-torque causes headaches, such as spreading the item you want to remove from the pressure, and making it even more difficult to remove. 30. 11-42-1-335-394 Special BMW 23 mm bolt for filling the thermostatcooler during oil changes when you ARE changing the oil filter, or have, for whatever reason, disconnected and drained the cooler. Using this tool will prevent the rare damage to a cooler radiator from high impulse pressures at engine startup when the oil is very cold. this is a really rare occurrence, and probably () occurs more when someone blips the throttle excessively (higher than 1500 rpm) during quite cold startup with an empty radiator. Do NOT use if longer than 23 mm. MUST have a full and smooth radiusd nose In the below photos, the short PROPER bolt, marked 23 mm in the photos, actually measured, from under the head to the tip, 0.918quot. The longer, WRONG bolt, measured 1.184quot from under the head to the tip. THE LONGER ONES WERE ALSO MADE BY BMW AND ARE NOT TO BE USED Both bolts are shown with the noses rounded (radiusd), and this is necessary. THE NOSE MUST NOT BE SHARP edged nor pointy, not even close to that I like the nose (tip area) more rounded than as shown in the below photos and I polish mine. 31. Another source for tools: culayerJoestools.htm . Limited number of items, but includes a seat hinge fix some specialty wrenches and sockets, etc. I DO SUGGEST you look and his prices are quite reasonable. 32. When adjusting the valves on pre-1985 models (from 1985, there is no adjustment possible for rocker end play by trying to adjust the position of the rocker blocks), it can be helpful, when adjusting rocker end play, to have a couple of very simple washer tools made up. A photo of these, and how to use them, is in the bmwmotorcycletech.infosetvalves.htm article. I suggest you read the article, then decide whether or not to make these simple washers. 33. Tools for emergency shifting of the 5 speed transmission when the pawl spring breaks. bmwmotorcycletech.infoemergency-shifting-tool.htm This is a tool I MIGHT recommend for riders that are world adventure travelers. 34. A tool rarely needed, is a mandrel for installing pushrod tubes. Seibenrock makes a pushrod tube mandrel. I have NOT inspected one of them. A front axle may work for you. 35. Degree wheels and piston stops. You may never have a need for them. You will find description and photos, here: bmwmotorcycletech.infoF,OT,S,Z.htm 37. Adjustment tool for use in setting rocker end play, see bmwmotorcycletech.infosetvalves.htm Very special tools are needed for certain jobs. Sometimes you can borrow a tool that you need perhaps once or twice in a lifetime. Rental of the toolsjigs to fix cylinder stud stripped holes are listed well above in this article. There are very special tools required to do certain jobs, such as shimming transmissions and rear drives, and maybe a dozen total specialty jobs in all that require special tools. A source, mentioned well above, cycleworks, has a lot of clever tools, some of which you will find exceptionally handy, for simple jobs like bearing RR, but also for doing a timing chain and timing sprockets job. Heres a repeat of prior information on this source: Clever BMW tools, videos, and help: Ed Korn previously did business as Cycle Works, in Oregon, WI (yes, that is the town name in the State of Wisconsin). He did some machine work, had LOTS of tools (and some parts) for everything from the Isetta cars, through the 2 era, and for Airheads, until the stopping of production of Airheads 1995. He had a rather extensive variety of tools, some VERY cleverly designed, and he had instructions, videos, all sorts of stuff. Doing a run-through of his website was informative to many folks. Ed sold the business to Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805 Haskins Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216 (913) 871-6740. Contact the new owner, Dan Neiner, at: Dancycleworks NOT . The url is: cycleworks NOT . Updated all to 03012006, minor clarifications. and add 22 entirely. 04222006: Add 23. 04232006: Add emphasis note on screwdrivers for the Bing tops. 04242006: Modify that note. 08152006: Edit 20. 09242006: Minor clarifications. 04172007: Add 24. 05082007: Add photo to 24 and add 25 (3 photos). 05112007: Add hyperlink in 8, clarify some minor details here and there. 08142007: Joes Tools hyperlinkurl obtained, item 20. 01192008: Update 20, 22. 10082008: Edit article for clarity, add 26, etc. NO errors in the article, just clarifications needed. 12302008: Add information about Jeff Trapp. 04192009: Add 27. 05012009: Add pdf drawing to item 24. 05212009: Clarify number and use for the 41 x 27 mm dogbone. 03092010: Add information on Jeff Trapps loaning of cylinder stud threads fix kit. 03122010: Add information on Dan Neiners offer to loan the cylinder stud tool. 03132010: Update item 20 in depth move one item to new 29. 04252010: Add photos of Posi-Drive screwdriver tip and screw. 07032010: 41 mm dogbone wrench part . Add 36 mm socket photo. Clarify details on socket and dogbone wrenches. 02272011: Fix HPD url. 03172011: Add note to 28, and some minor updates elsewheres. 09032011: Add photo of the impact driver, which was not hyperlinked originally either. 03282012: Add info to 24. 04262012: Remove photo of dogbone tool, spoke tool, Schrader valve tool, rear drive ring tool. Re-arrange numerous items, add individual photos on some of these items add more commentary on what to get and NOT what to get. 04282012: Finish cleaning up article. 07102012: Add 32. 07152012: Add 33. 08082012: Add photos of exhaust finned nut tools amp some commentary amp links re-arrange some items a lot of cleanup. 08242012: Re-arrange top part of article, and add a few things. 10022012: Add photos and text regarding the BMW feeler gauge tool add QR code, add language button, update Google code. 11152012: Clean up article. Minor improvements numerous clarity improvements change article width so better works with smaller screens. Repair unclosed html tags, etc. 01162013: Expand 25. 03082013: Add Esoteric section. 1116 amp 22, 2013: All for item 22: Add more on pullers including seal puller photo, clean up wording. 11292013: Add notes on making the shock spring compressor better. Sometime in 2013: remove language button, as the javascript was causing problems with some browsers. 04012014: Improve clarity in a few areas. 05042014: Add 34, which was noted in my head assembly article but erroneously not put in the tools article. 05212014: Add35. 07082014: Add warning note on removing chips, etc. to item 20. 08112014: Add Cen-Tech photo. 09302014: Clean up article. 10252014: Add note to 4, in Part II. 02122015: Modify photo of rotor tools to include NOT APPROVED. Edit associated text. 02172015: 13 had been blank. 02282015: Clarify use of torque wrench adaptors. 06192015: Add note for tire repair article. 06222015: Add Cycleworks torque wrench adaptor info and photo. 08102015: Fix hyperlinks for cylinder stud repairs items. 08162015: MINOR clarifications and a final cleanup on 09152015. 10042015: Add hyperlink for spark plug shorting tool source: northwoodsairheads 11012015: Add 9, which had been previously deletedmoved. 12242015: Meta codes clean up entire article, clarify some details, improve for smaller screens. 01062016: Meta-codes updated. Fonts increased. Left side justification mode intensified, horizontal lines characteristics changed. and, some clarifications and updating. 03272016: Add 37. 04122016: Completely updated. Metacodes, colors, layout, fonts, clarifications, dogbone photo annotated, etc. 11262016: Add .gif of screw heads. 12192016: Revise entire article for clarity, ease of use. 02102017: Add cycleworks in a second place, near end of article, modifying (adding-to) the text a bit. Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer Last checkedit: Friday, February 10, 2017
Pilihan-strategi-untuk-volatilitas tinggi
T4-trading-system